Second tasting in as many weeks of sherries from Sanlucar de Barrameida, this time from the house of Hidalgo. Tasted Tuesday, 01 Nov 2011 in The Punter, Cambridge; tasting was hosted by Cambridge Wine Merchants and led by Javier Hidalgo himself. Sherries were accompanied by some tasty tapas-stlye food.
Sat next to Tom Lewis, The Cambridge Wine Blogger, his take on the evening can be found here.
La Gitana Manzanilla
B+
This is the 'house' style Manzanilla by Hidalgo, accounts for a majority of their production and sales.
Fresh flor and green almonds; brine and iodine, some biscuit and yeasty notes too. On the palate its very clean and refreshing, cleansing acidity, vibrant and taut; even some citrus showing as well. Nice style, really cuts through the fairly lively tapas and holds its own.
Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana
A-
More nutty, roasted (as opposed to green) almonds on the nose; olives too, some brine and iodine still. On the palate is has more presence, greater intensity of flavour; definitely more nutty, not green anymore. Settled, more mature, still vibrant acidity; there isnt as much flavour on the initial hit, but it has a more sustained mid palate; lasts longer than the basic Manzanilla.
Oloroso Abocado Alameda
B+
Sweeter nose: raisins, caramel and toffee, fudge; again some varnish, with noticeable oxidative character. The sugar is noticeable, maybe on the 50-60g/l range; raisins and sultanas, with caramel; good presence but short on the finish.
Hidalgo 30yo 'Wellington' Palo Cortado
A
On the nose its full on nutty, roasted hazelnuts and almonds; burnt salted caramel, some coffee and dusted chocolate, raisins too; then the more developed nose of wood varnish and lacquer kicks in; serious complexity even on the nose. On the palate theres still plenty of vibrant acidity, even fruity (sultanas, bitter marmalade); astonishingly fresh and lively; sweet spices on the very very long finish. Mature, complex, truly a joy to drink.
Hidalgo 30yo 'Triana' Pedro Ximenez
A-
Dark, almost inky black and according to a fellow taster has the consistency of used engine oil. On the nose theres golden syrup, caramel, treacle and bags of molasses; some coffee, demerara and dark chocolate too; almost overhwhelming really. On the palate its incredibly concentrated, intense and sugary, this hits 400g/l residual sugar; syrupy thick, it actually feels heavy on the palate; tastes like raisin juice; unctuous, decadent, very very long mocha flavoured finish. I poured some of this over the vanilla ice cream dessert and it still showed through.
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