Formal Hall

Sunday, 03 June 2012.

Five wines with dinner, with port and claret afterwards - rather more than the norm, we're all in Diamond Jubilee mood here.

Las Montanas Sauvignon Blanc
B

A correct varietal Sauvignon Blanc, shows the green leafy aromas along with some citrus; clean but very short on the palate, finishes with a slightly bitter (and not entirely pleasant) aftertaste.

2006 R de Rieussec, Bordeaux Blanc Sec
faulty - corked

2005 Suckfizzle Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
A-

Quite nutty on the nose, the oak treatment shows, can almost smell roasted almonds and hazelnuts; quite waxy and oily too, suspect its from the Semillon; only slight hints of greenness from the Sauvignon; all beautifully integrated and together; really full and forward nose, but nevertheless inviting. Clean on the palate; its filling and fruit forward; grapefruit and citrus, paprika pith almost, with savoury hints; integrated flavours, still a bold wine but no one thing dominates.

2009 Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay, Sonoma Country

B+

The oak treatment shows, but this tends towards the creamy buttery spectrum, with dried coconuts and sweet vanilla too; not overpowering. Palate feels slightly clumsy and lumbering, just about enough fruit to carry off the oak but it does need an ice bucket; lest the oakiness overwhelms.

2005 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes 1er Cru
B+

Lovely botrytis, honeyed nose, tending towards treacle and golden syrup, smells rather heavy. Feels quite lumbering on the palate, I fear it lacks acidity and lift to it; the honeyed fruit is there but isnt bright; if anything, the somewhat dull mouthfeel makes me think this isnt the best bottle of '05 Rieussec I'll try.

1963 Avery's Special Reserve Vintage Port
A

Lovely sweet raspberries, touch of liquer there; very floral, rose hips and turkish delight, plenty of high notes; then a slight medicinal, cough syrup menthol like notes which develops over time into wine gums and pastilles and a lovely spiciness. Still very lively on the palate, ripe raspberries, vibrant streak of acidity too; amazing freshness given its age. Fruit is light and reserved, almost notes of candied citrus, such is its acidity. Its not voluptuous, instead showing finesse, precision and focus with a lingering, fading finish. Excellent stuff. Unfortunately it declined quite rapidly after decanting - the port I tasted on opening and three hours later after dinner was sadly not the same, it had lost quite a lot of the brightness and liveliness.

Update from Avery's Wine. In 1963 Avery's made six pipes of their Special Reserve Vintage Port which was blended from 1 pipe of Taylors, 2 pipes of Fonseca and 3 pipes of Sandeman. Apparently this blend was subsequently very highly rated by various wine writers and critics. Quite right too, I might add. Many thanks to Duncan Pilbeam of Avery's for the information.

2005 Chateau Patache d'Aux, Medoc Cru Bourgeois Superieur
A-

Textbook after dinner claret - dark fruit with licorice leaps initially, but it quickly resolves to yield to a more rustic, earthy, smoked tobacco and cedar nose. On the palate, theres sustained dark, sweet fruit on the mid palate; not big but very consistent and generous throughout; ripe tannins melt away towards the finish; pleasant acidity. Superb balance, everything in its place; good claret really needn't cost the earth; drink now - 2020+