Johnnie Walker Spice Road
March 2013
Launched in late 2012, the Spice Road is the first of three blends in Johnnie Walker's new Trade Routes Series of whiskies. Part of their Explorers' Club Collection, these three whiskies are supposedly only available exclusively on Global Travel Retail (thats duty free shopping in airports, to you and me). I picked up my bottle in March 2012 in Singapore Changi International Airport.
Johnnie Walker Explorers' Club Collection 'The Spice Road'
SGD$52.50 (1 litre) | A-
40% abv. Deep golden amber in colour, its visibly darker than your average JW. Off the bat, sweet oak vanilla aromas coming through; caramel, treacle and fudge also to the fore, then followed by sweet spices (mostly cinnamon and nutmeg); smells quite volatile for its abv (or that could be the rather hot 'room temperature' here in Singapore). Sweetness carries through to the palate, with a satisfying fruity hit in the beginning; the cinnamon/clove-like spice along with slightly woody barbecued but sweet smokiness really kicks in on the mid palate, and is the dominating flavour on the finish. Smooth, very clean on the palate, doesnt have the lingering power or depth but is surprisingly long on the finish. Yes, the name is slightly gimicky but I think its still very well-made, attractive, and relatively good value - I'll be buying another ...
Note to Johnnie Walker: Whats with the screwtop closures with in-built steady pourers? It doesnt give me the characteristic and very warming 'pop' sound that the cork closures do ... We taste with all our senses, no?
Monday, 25 March 2013
Wednesday, 20 March 2013
The Local Nose, Singapore
The Local Nose tasting
08 March 2013. Le Vigne, Singapore.
A wine tasting organised by The Local Nose group in
Singapore. As far as I gathered on the night, they are group of wine enthusiast
in Singapore who regularly organise tasting events, showcasing the wines of
particular local, independent wine merchants that they support. This tasting
featured wines stocked by Le Vigne, a small wine merchant focusing on good
value, everyday drinking wines at around the $30-50 range mostly from the new
world - though I did spot some rather smart Chataeuneufs lying around on the
shelves.
The tasting notes below are in the order I tasted them.
The prices indicated are retail in Singapore Dollars by the bottle at Le Vigne,
though they do offer 10% discount on all cash and carry purchases.
Finca Flichman Extra Brut
$41.50 | B
An 80/20 blend of Chardonnay / Malbec made using the
Charmat method, more commonly associated with the production of prosecco.
Golden, salmon tinge; strawberry and peach fruity nose,
with slight bready / developed characters. Palate is fruit dominated, quite
large but feels slightly thin and dilute; medium low acid, its passable as an
aperitif. Lacks bit of brightness and zing for my liking.
2008 Bald Hills ‘Last Light’ Riesling. Central Otago, NZ.
$49.90 | B+
Lemon zest and blossoms on the nose, with a hint of
petrol / kerosene; slightly waxy lemons too, with candied peel aromas, like air
freshener. Gently off dry, perhaps in the 10-20 g/l range; fat lemony flavours
with a grapefruit pithiness on the finish. High acidity makes it feel zingy and
effectively dry on the finish, its got good fruit concentration to keep things
interesting; a pretty, ageworthy wine.
2011 Mount Brown Sauvignon Blanc. Waipara Valley, NZ.
$41.70 | B+
Served blind. Citrus and green guava, with a touch of
tropical fruit sweetness coming through, subtle leafy / grassy undertones. On the
palate, the greenness becomes more obvious; flinty, minerally and quite
textured in style; not your usual opulent fruit-driven NZSB, more of a mature,
ripe Pouilly Fume.
$49.50 | A-
Dark cherry with sweet prunes, earthy and sweet spices,
with star anise dominating; a lick of sweet oak and even cedar / incense woods
completes a very polished nose. Fruit is bright, morello cherry and kirsch,
with wild strawberries on the palate, nice ripeness of fruit with slight
crunchy acidity; hint of blackpepper and sweet spice on the finish. A full
bodied style with good flavour concentration and velvety texture. Its complete,
very classy & poised.
Castello Albai Joven. Rioja, Spain.
$26.50 | B
Dark fruit compote, quite sweet and cooked; very apparent
oak treatment shows through the prominent sweet vanilla and coconut notes, bit
too brash, somewhat unappealing for me. Fruit is sweet and juicy, large on the
entry but fades very quickly; feels thin on the mid palate, gritty and rough on
the finish. Rather simple flavours on show, somewhat agricultural in approach,
not pretty.
2011 Finca Flichman Reserva Malbec. Mendoza, Argentina.
$37.50 | B+
Sweet dark fruit, blackberry and blueberry compote
dominates along with fragrant violets and cassis notes; lifted aromas. Fruit shows
dark plums and blueberries, its ripe but feels quite heavy and alcoholic;
bitter chocolate on the finish. Medium low in acid, theres a rather unpleasant gritty
/ coal dust note on the finish; over extracted in my opinion, lacks balance.
2010 Gran Bajoz Vinas Viejas. Toro, Spain.
$47.90 | B+(+)
Part of Pagos del Rey’s operation (same parent company as
the Castillo Albai above), Gran Bajoz is their top Toro wine.
Dark fruit, blackberry, dark plums and bramble; dried
herbs / garrigue, coffee and dark chocolate; with some hefty sweet oak notes,
almost charred / BBQ notes; brooding, makes you expect a huge wine. Prunes and
blackberry carry through on the palate; bags of fruit, nice concentration and
staying power on the mid palate; obviously extracted, it is trying to be a big
wine and just about pulls it off. Medium acid, ripe, sweet but chunky tannins,
this will reward medium term cellaring; drink now – 2018+
2010 Vinaceous ‘Red Right Hand’. Multiregion blend,
Australia.
$61.50 | B+
A blend of McLaren Vale Shiraz (79%), Grenache (15%) and Western
Australia Tempranillo (5%), if not anything else, it is novel.
Sweet blackcurrant and blackberry jam, it is overtly (and
intentionally?) sweet and confected in style; fragrant but a bit too brash for
me. Fruit shows red plums and blackberry; its ripe, quite alcoholic and sweet; low
acid, decent mid palate weight, finishes quickly. Drink young to capture the
sweetness.
Overall: Interesting selection of wines, but this being
my first review from Singapore, its clear that I must recalibrate my scale for
value for money. Wines aren’t cheap here: at the moment, the Finca Flichman
Reserva Malbec is being offered by Waitrose in the UK for £6.99 or approx. $14
(down from £8.99, approx. $18). Similarly, the Mount Browns retail in the UK
for £10-15; its more than twice that here. That said, it was great getting to know some of the Local Nose crew - it was a fun, convivial occasion all around. I even managed to pick up some interesting bottles from Le Vigne ...
Links:
The Local Nose – tasting organisers
Le Vigne – tasting venue and stockists for all the wines
above
72 Namly Place, Singapore 267220
T: (65) 64620053 E: le_vigne@singnet.com.sg
Open 7 days a week 12-18.30
Saturday, 2 March 2013
General
Some notable wines I tasted in November - December 2012, all of which were enjoyed over dinner.
2009 Pieropan, La Rocca, Soave Classico
A- | Cambridge Wine Merchants £ 23.99
White floral notes with white stone fruits, honey and hints of candied almond; its lifted, fragrant and opulent. Palate is textured almost slightly mealy like oat porridge (in a good way), white fruits dominate, quite sweet with balancing acidity; mouthfilling and shows great presence, leading to a minerally finish. Focused yet generous, excellent stuff.
2005 Condrieu, Les Terrasses du Palat, Francois Villard
A-
Quite heady still, overripe peaches and nectarines mingle with honey on the nose. Palate is rich and full, stone fruit flavours dominate to the fore with a hint of grapefruit; low acidity, sustained mid palate flavours, slight drying grip on the finish. Not the most showy / opulent Condrieu, but shows decent complexity and impressively long finish.
1996 Jim Barry 'The Armagh' Shiraz, Clare Valley
A+
Top of the tree at Jim Barry wines, 'The Armagh' Shiraz is one of the iconic wines of Australia, right up there with Penfolds' Grange and Henschke's Hill of Grace; from a really good vintage too.
Still primary fruits on the nose, blackcurrant cordial and pastilles, still plenty of minty eucalyptus showing; fragrant and lifted, incredibly fresh. On the palate, flavours of blueberries and blackcurrants dominate; still primary but not overwhelming; theres purity and sweetness of fruit at its core; the oak has melded into the wine, tannins are resolved - everything feels together, all supported by the fruit. This is a stunning wine, probably close to its peak, but will continue to evolve, drink now - 2023+.
1996 Elderton 'Command' Shiraz, Barossa
A+
First made in 1984, this is another iconic Barossa Shiraz with a stellar reputation of being one of the region's best; always a high scoring wine among the wine critics, if you are into point-counting.
Primary fruits on the nose, ribena pastilles, quite sweet and lifted, think cough syrup medication; lovely eucalyptus / mint nose also coming through; very voluptuous and ready to please out of the bottle. Palate is textured, blackcurrant fruit still at its core, but its not brash, its mellowed and rounded; savoury and gamey hints too, has an oiliness like streaky bacon. Great mouthfeel, complex flavours with all components integrated; its probably at its peak, but should still hold for a while, drink now - 2018+. An absolute joy to drink, one of the best Australian Shiraz I have ever tasted.
2004 Magpie Estate 'The Gomersal' Grenache, Barossa
A- | Noel Young £24.99 (for the '09 vintage)
Magpie Estate is a joint venture between Trumpington, Cambridge-based wine merchant Noel Young and winemaker Rolf Binder from the Barossa (who also makes wine under the labels JJ Hahn and Veritas). 'The Gomersal' is their top end Grenache, only made in the best years; typically a small percentage of their premium Shiraz (called 'The Election') is blended into the Gomersal, in 2004 it was 3%.
Warmth on the nose, mulled spices, cloves with red plums and cherries compote, slightly cooked fruit nature to this; theres also secondary notes of game and cured meats, even slightly dirty / earthy characters too. Palate is soft and rounded, fruit is still bright, red cherries and red berries with damsons; medium-high acidity, it feels vivacious and nimble; textured mouthfeel, all components integrated well. Probably at its peak, but should keep yet, drink now - 2018+
Comments: All the wines above are classics, icons even, in their own rights, a short word on each. The Pieropan La Rocca is perhaps the benchmark for quality Soave Classico, the 2009 here is the current vintage which I picked up from Cambridge Wine Merchants. Yes its not cheap, but in my experience, the La Rocca never disappoints; Pieropan also do a basic Soave (less exciting but still good) at about half the price of the La Rocca. The Condrieu and Magpie Estate were acquired from the cellars of a Cambridge College, both ageworthy wines showing the benefits of some cellaring time. The two mature, iconic Australian Shiraz, the Jim Barry Armagh from Clare and the Elderton Command from Barossa were picked up at auction. Both came with huge reputations and correspondingly high expectations, which I am glad to say it met with flying colours - these premium-end Australian reds certainly worth cellaring as much as Cru Classe clarets.
2009 Pieropan, La Rocca, Soave Classico
A- | Cambridge Wine Merchants £ 23.99
White floral notes with white stone fruits, honey and hints of candied almond; its lifted, fragrant and opulent. Palate is textured almost slightly mealy like oat porridge (in a good way), white fruits dominate, quite sweet with balancing acidity; mouthfilling and shows great presence, leading to a minerally finish. Focused yet generous, excellent stuff.
2005 Condrieu, Les Terrasses du Palat, Francois Villard
A-
Quite heady still, overripe peaches and nectarines mingle with honey on the nose. Palate is rich and full, stone fruit flavours dominate to the fore with a hint of grapefruit; low acidity, sustained mid palate flavours, slight drying grip on the finish. Not the most showy / opulent Condrieu, but shows decent complexity and impressively long finish.
1996 Jim Barry 'The Armagh' Shiraz, Clare Valley
A+
Top of the tree at Jim Barry wines, 'The Armagh' Shiraz is one of the iconic wines of Australia, right up there with Penfolds' Grange and Henschke's Hill of Grace; from a really good vintage too.
Still primary fruits on the nose, blackcurrant cordial and pastilles, still plenty of minty eucalyptus showing; fragrant and lifted, incredibly fresh. On the palate, flavours of blueberries and blackcurrants dominate; still primary but not overwhelming; theres purity and sweetness of fruit at its core; the oak has melded into the wine, tannins are resolved - everything feels together, all supported by the fruit. This is a stunning wine, probably close to its peak, but will continue to evolve, drink now - 2023+.
1996 Elderton 'Command' Shiraz, Barossa
A+
First made in 1984, this is another iconic Barossa Shiraz with a stellar reputation of being one of the region's best; always a high scoring wine among the wine critics, if you are into point-counting.
Primary fruits on the nose, ribena pastilles, quite sweet and lifted, think cough syrup medication; lovely eucalyptus / mint nose also coming through; very voluptuous and ready to please out of the bottle. Palate is textured, blackcurrant fruit still at its core, but its not brash, its mellowed and rounded; savoury and gamey hints too, has an oiliness like streaky bacon. Great mouthfeel, complex flavours with all components integrated; its probably at its peak, but should still hold for a while, drink now - 2018+. An absolute joy to drink, one of the best Australian Shiraz I have ever tasted.
2004 Magpie Estate 'The Gomersal' Grenache, Barossa
A- | Noel Young £24.99 (for the '09 vintage)
Magpie Estate is a joint venture between Trumpington, Cambridge-based wine merchant Noel Young and winemaker Rolf Binder from the Barossa (who also makes wine under the labels JJ Hahn and Veritas). 'The Gomersal' is their top end Grenache, only made in the best years; typically a small percentage of their premium Shiraz (called 'The Election') is blended into the Gomersal, in 2004 it was 3%.
Warmth on the nose, mulled spices, cloves with red plums and cherries compote, slightly cooked fruit nature to this; theres also secondary notes of game and cured meats, even slightly dirty / earthy characters too. Palate is soft and rounded, fruit is still bright, red cherries and red berries with damsons; medium-high acidity, it feels vivacious and nimble; textured mouthfeel, all components integrated well. Probably at its peak, but should keep yet, drink now - 2018+
Comments: All the wines above are classics, icons even, in their own rights, a short word on each. The Pieropan La Rocca is perhaps the benchmark for quality Soave Classico, the 2009 here is the current vintage which I picked up from Cambridge Wine Merchants. Yes its not cheap, but in my experience, the La Rocca never disappoints; Pieropan also do a basic Soave (less exciting but still good) at about half the price of the La Rocca. The Condrieu and Magpie Estate were acquired from the cellars of a Cambridge College, both ageworthy wines showing the benefits of some cellaring time. The two mature, iconic Australian Shiraz, the Jim Barry Armagh from Clare and the Elderton Command from Barossa were picked up at auction. Both came with huge reputations and correspondingly high expectations, which I am glad to say it met with flying colours - these premium-end Australian reds certainly worth cellaring as much as Cru Classe clarets.
Thursday, 28 February 2013
CUWS M12 - Paritua Wines
CUWS M12 – Paritua Wines
Wednesday, 24 October 2012
A tasting of Paritua Wines at Cambridge University Wine Society, presented by its winemaker Jason Stent. This relatively new winery was
established in 2001, with their first vine plantings arriving in 2003 focusing
on the noble grape varieties of the world. The name ‘Paritua’ comes from the
local name of the stream that runs through this Hawkes Bay property. Its
current winemaker, Jason Stent, was keen to stress that while at Paritua he
generally tries to practice minimal intervention in the vineyard, there are
some rather nifty high tech gadgetry including a heated water sprinkler system
for frost prevention that covers most of his vineyards. While based in Hawkes
Bay, two of Paritua’s wines (their Pinot Noir and Riesling) are sourced from
Central Otago. In addition, they also incorporate another label within their
stable, called Stone Paddock.
The wines are presented below in the order they were
tasted. I have included their RRP (according to Paritua), but a quick google
search soon reveals that most of these wines can be had for slightly less from
Imbibros or Hennings Wines.
2008 Paritua Riesling, Central Otago
£18.99 | B+
Lime rind and peel on the nose, with grapefruit and hints
of kerosene; whilst pleasant and attractive enough, it lacks a certain
zestiness for me. The citrus fruit is gentle on the palate, generous acidity
but lacking in flavour concentration; its correct but feels a touch flabby /
dilute, lacks focus. Cant help thinking it could be more precise and nervy.
2009 Paritua Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay
£18.99 | B+
Attractive peachy nose, with overripe stone fruits,
tending towards passionfruits and mangoes, quite sweet; significant oak treatment
here, but the buttery creamy notes integrate well with the other aromas. Fat
acidity, fruit is ripe and generous if a tad simple / one-dimensional, slight
savoury hints too; rather short finish. I like this, its well made and quite
attractive, but I feel it’s a but too pricy for what it is.
2008 Paritua Pinot Noir, Central Otago
£21.50 | B
Bright cranberry and red cherry fruit, with warming
mulled spices, earthy notes and a lick of sweet oak – pretty, polished and
attractive nose, great start. Sweet red fruit on the palate, medium acidity,
but feels somewhat tired and flat, just isn’t bright and its lacking in
concentration. The palate such a disappointment after the nose, could be a
dodgy bottle?
2008 Stone Paddock Syrah, Hawkes Bay
£14.99 | B+
Red plums and blackcurrant cordial, quite sweet on the nose, with a hint of sweet spice. Bright red fruit on the palate (red berries and plums), a lighter, easier drinking style; smooth and polished. A little too commercial for me, correct but unexciting.
2008 Paritua Syrah, Hawkes Bay
£21.50 | B+
Jammy red & dark fruit, stewed fruit / compote nose;
theres fruit liquers and cassis, almost tending towards being too sweet and
confected – heady stuff, slightly over the top for me. Blackcurrant fruit on
the palate, theres concentration and nice texture here, medium low acidity,
hint of spice and savoury touches, some sweet oak too. Correct, but again, unexciting.
2007 Paritua Red, Hawkes Bay
£21.50 | A-
This is their Bordeaux lookalike, with a blend of 54%
Cabernet Sauvignon / 32% Merlot / 9% Cabernet Franc / 5% Malbec; significant
new French oak used, approx. 2500 cases made.
Dark fruit, cassis and brambles, with a hint of
leafiness, fragrant spice and sweet oak; brooding, attractive nose. Plenty of
ripe fruit on the palate, nice extraction and concentration; black plums and
brambles, medium acidity with decent tannins. Structured and ageworthy, drink
now – 2018+
2007 Paritua 21.12, Hawkes Bay
£37.50 | A-(+)
Paritua’s flagship red, a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon
/ 28% Merlot / 21% Cabernet Franc; significant new French oak used, approx. 700
cases made.
Dark fruit compote, cassis and bramble notes, with hints
of coffee and dusted cocoa, bit of sweet oak too; more brooding, less open and
overtly fruity than its ‘Red’. On the palate, dark plums and blackberries,
feels extracted; quite a large mouthfeel and heavy texture; a big wine, carries
the sweet oak well. Medium acidity, plenty of fine tannins; big boned, quite
muscular at the moment, certainly ageworthy; drink now – 2020+
2009 Stone Paddock ‘Isabella’ Late Harvest Semillon,
Hawkes Bay
£13.99 (37.5cl) | A-
Golden amber in colour. Sweet, honeyed nose of tinned
peaches and ripe mangoes; quite thick, full on, aromas. Tastes of tinned fruits
again, quite intensely sweet (I’m guessing 150-200 g/l residual sugar); texture is quite thick and hefty, but with a
nice streak of acidity, alleviating the cloying feel – makes it all taste like
tinned pineapples. Not shy.
Monday, 18 February 2013
Cambridge Tasting Pt III – Seven Springs Wines
Cambridge Tasting Pt III – Seven Springs Wines
Sunday, 20th January 2013.
West Lodge, Downing
College, Cambridge.
The third lot of wine at
this tasting were from Seven Springs vineyards from the Western Cape in South
Africa. Their UK importer is listed on the back label as Belle Epoque Wine, The
Mead Barn, Coltishall, NR12 7DN. As far as I am aware, they currently do not
have a UK stockist so I can’t provide retail prices. However, Tom Lewis assures
me that they would be around the £10 mark.
Seven Springs Vineyards,
Western Cape, South Africa
2011 Sauvignon Blanc
Correct varietal notes of
citrus, hint of leafy greenness / cut grass and gooseberry, not as pungent as
some Marlborough Sauv Blancs. Fruit on the palate is sweet with good acidity,
quite generous in flavour but one-dimensional. A simple, well made wine - does
what it says on the label.
2011 Pinot Noir ‘Young
Vines I’
Fragrant, sweet red fruit,
ripe strawberries and red cherries with a sweet wood / polished cedar nose too
(I’m guessing theres some oak here?). Fruit is juicy yet with some crunch, ripe
red cherries; forward, easy to understand but quite simple.
2010 Syrah
More akin to Barossa
Shiraz: mint / eucalyptus, with ribena pastilles, dark fruit compote and
licorice – fragrant, quite heady nose. Palate lets it down, tart, unripe black
cherries, lacks a bright juiciness you expect from the nose; feels fresh
though.
I thought these three
wines were technically well made if not slightly boring, it does what it says
on the tin but doesn’t excite. I would be surprised if they were trying to
retail this for much more than £10. Of the three, I was most impressed by the
Pinot – I often find that entry level South African Pinot can feel cooked /
hot, which this one manages to avoid.
Cambridge Tasting Pt II – Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux
Cambridge Tasting Pt II –
Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux
Sunday, 20th January 2013.
West Lodge, Downing
College, Cambridge.
The second lot of wines at this tasting were the Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux. Clarets at this level are a staple diet of Cambridge Colleges, so when Tom said that he had been sent several samples of the newly released 2010s, I procured some mature 2000s from the College Cellars for comparison. On a side note, I remember tasting quite a few of the 2010 Cru Bourgeois during the en primeur campaign in 2011, my impressions then was that quality was pretty high across the board, with plenty of sweet fruit and ripe tannins. The fruit quality was there to get good extraction and flavour; certainly a great vintage capable of long term cellaring. I was keen to see how the wines have developed now that they are bottled and ready to go.
Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois
2010s courtesy of Alliance
de Cru Bourgeois du Medoc
2000s procured from the
cellars of Downing College, Cambridge
2010 Chateau La Garricq,
Moulis en Medoc
Plenty of dark fruit and
cassis on the nose, balanced with a sweet lick of oak; smells ripe and heady,
almost a touch alcoholic. On the palate, the fruit sweet and textured; good
stuffing and warmth on the mid palate, ripe tannins showing as quite silky; I
think the relatively high alcohol levels somewhat masks the chewier side of the
tannins. Good, well balanced wine; still very powerful, needs time.
2010 Chateau La
Commanderie, Saint Estephe
Sweet fruit and cassis on
the nose but with a more pronounced stalky / woody aromas; the aromas feels a
bit disjointed at the moment, but it should integrate with time. Although the
fruit is good, the palate is rather disappointing as the tannins feel green and
astringent, gripping in all the wrong places. Feels agricultural, lacks charm.
2010 Chateau Beaumont,
Haut Medoc
Dark blackberry fruit
compote on the nose, with sweet woody aromas / cedar and cigar box, hints of
earthy smoke too – quite alluring in all. Palate feels surprisingly thin,
theres ripe sweet fruit but not enough weight and concentration; tannins are
sweet and balanced. I was surprised at its lack of depth, if I remember
correctly this showed rather well in the en primeur tastings a couple of years
back.
2010 Chateau Gironville,
Haut Medoc
Overtly fruity on the
nose, with blueberry and blackberries dominating; theres even a porty / Ribena
cordial note about it, bright and voluptuous on the nose. Palate shows all the
right components in check – sweet, dark fruit; fresh acidity giving it
brightness and ripe but wholesome, grippy tannins. A very good claret, should
age well; highly recommended.
2010 Chateau Preuillac,
Medoc
Ribena and cassis on the
nose, with some notes of blackberry liquer; theres brightness and high,
somewhat alcoholic notes too. Good concentration of fruit flavours, relatively
high acidity, making it feel quite fresh; not as lavish as the Gironville but
still a well-built wine. Has structure to allow aging.
2010 Chateau Patache
d’Aux, Medoc
Fragrant, sweet dark fruit
with hints of licorice, smells quite big. Disappointingly muted on the palate
and lacking any weight, I’m pretty sure this is an out-of-condition sample.
2000 Chateau Patache
d’Aux, Medoc
I’ve had the pleasure of
tasting this particular wine several times in the past, and this wasn’t the
best bottle. The slightly dusty / musty nose hints at a below-par bottle; fruit
on the palate is soft and the acidity is still lively but overall, it lacks the
brightness and charm I know it should have. Such a shame.
2000 Chateau Bernadotte,
Haut Medoc
Sweet cedar and incense,
along with a smoky hint of cigar box and sandalwood; fruit is dark but not
overpowering – a fragrant, developed nose. Fruit is plush and generous, with a
lovely acidity; all components integrated and balanced, this lingers on the
palate surprisingly long for a humble wine. So poised, a joy to drink. Proof,
if needed, that well-made humble clarets from great vintages can keep so well;
still has life ahead.
2000 Chateau Lanessan,
Haut Medoc
The bottle I had at the
tasting was underwhelming, tired to the point of losing it altogether. I tried
another bottle of this a week later, which showed its pedigree: dark fruit, with
woody licorice and cedar, somewhat masculine in style. Fruit is sweet with the
licorice notes following through on the palate, relatively low acidity.
Drinking well now and probably wont improve further.
My overall impression of
the 2010 clarets: ripe fruit was clear to see, some to the point of being
almost over alcoholic; tannins were ripe too. The best, more lavish of them can
be enjoyed on release but for some, I would advocate restraint, give it a few
years to settle down and I think your patience will be amply rewarded. A hit
rate of one in three for the 2000s doesn’t bode well in terms of consistency,
yet given how well the one performed, I could almost forgive the non-performing
two. Luck of the draw, I guess, but I’d probably sing a different tune if I was
in a restaurant and been served two dodgy bottles in a row.
Many thanks to the Alliance
de Cru Bourgeois du Medoc and Phillips-Hill, their UK PR agency for the 2010
samples.
Saturday, 16 February 2013
Cambridge Tasting Pt I – Weingut Adank
Cambridge Tasting Pt I –
Weingut Adank
Sunday, 20th January 2013.
West Lodge, Downing
College, Cambridge.
A bit of background. I
must admit, this tasting was mostly the idea of Tom Lewis, aka the Cambridge Wine Blogger (yes, its his fault, I am merely an accomplice). In one of our
conversations, Tom said that he had quite a backlog of samples that he
wanted/needed to try. Ideally he wanted to try them in a tasting with a few
other wine enthusiasts but lacked a suitable venue, which was where I came in.
So there the idea came together and materialised.
There were three distinct
groups of wines to be tasted: the wines of Weingut Hansruedi Adank from
Switzerland, a slew of 2010 Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux and a small selection of
wines from 7Springs vineyard in South Africa. Like Tom, I’ve decided to write
up the tasting in three separate blog entries, in the order they were tasted.
Tom and I somewhat disagreed on the running order – we were both clear the
Adank wines should be first, but I would have preferred the 7Springs to come
next and end with the clarets. Call me old school if you must.
The other attendees at
this tasting were a good mix, including members of the wine trade, wine
enthusiasts who were keen to learn more, relative newbies to wine as well as
several members of the Cambridge University Blind Wine Tasting Society’s
varsity team.
Weingut Familie Hansruedi
Adank, AOC Graubunden, Switzerland
Courtesy of Patrick Adank
Tom and I met Patrick
Adank (son of the Adank proprietor/winemaker, himself studying Oenology in
France) when he came to Cambridge for a two-week English course late last year.
He had a bottle of his top-end Pinot Noir then, which he graciously shared – my
review of that wine can be found here, Tom’s here. He kindly sent over a mixed
case containing a bottle each of all the wines that his family makes. I have no
RRPs as these wines are not available in the UK, but their ex-cellar prices
range from €15 - 35ish.
2011 Flascher Sauvignon
Blanc | A-
Sweet peachy notes
followed by hints of oak and vanilla, some notes of wet stones too; its
actually quite lovely on the nose. Palate is soft and delicate, with medium-low
acidity but good minerally texture, think of a thicker, more textured Sancerre,
with slight green leafy notes. Doesn’t scream at you like new world Sauv Blancs.
2011 Flascher Chardonnay |
B+
Thick, buttery and creamy notes;
hot buttered toast, with overtly toasty sweet oak coming through, balanced with
peachy fruit – pretty and certainly not shy. Palate is easy going, fruit is
relatively straightforward, with decent length. But it lacks a wow factor: it doesn’t
have the sophistication and poise of Burgundy yet also without the overt fruit
of new world Chardonnays. I’m left confused and cant help think that it could
be better.
2010 Flascher Syrah | B
(this wine was tasted last after the Pinots, it's put here as I took the picture along with the whites)
Overtly sweet notes of vanilla and red fruits, violets and blueberries; theres some green stalky and woody characters showing too. Unfortunately, on the palate its watery and hollow; hardly any fruit, with a weird astringent finish. Given how its tasting so tired and hollowed out, I’m not entirely sure this bottle was in perfect condition. Or perhaps growing Syrah where they are is somewhat ambitious.
2011 Flascher Pinot Noir |
B+
Red fruit, cranberries and
red cherries with a touch of savoury bacon and woodiness coming through. Palate
is soft, mostly sweet cranberries, with medium acidity; not much by way of
weight; feels like a basic but well made Bourgogne Rouge from a cool year.
2010 Flascher Pinot Noir
Auslese | B+
Sweet red fruit, with red
cherries and raspberries dominating, some notes of confected strawberries and
compote with some notes of lacquer perhaps showing some wood treatment; smells
ripe and quite promising. Palate has high acidity and the fruit is sweet but
rather thin, tastes a bit dilute for my liking; what was there is pretty but
just not enough stuffing.
2008 Flascher Pinot Noir
Barrique | B+
Red fruit with higher
notes sweet spice, ethanol and lacquer with hint of blackpepper; the extra wood
treatment shows but theres a slight sulphury whiff which I didn’t mind but some
of the others likened it to rubber / tyres which put them off. On the palate
its got a bit more weight even hints of minerality, red fruit is sweet and very
smooth but it goes way too quickly, just isn’t enough length on mid palate.
Feels a bit lean.
My overall impression of
these Adank wines is that theres clearly a house style where its very easy (and
not unattractive too) on the nose followed by soft and smooth on the palate. I
think the wines are technically well executed, though I might question the
wisdom in making Syrah in Switzerland. Personally, I found the Pinots lacking
fruit and weight on the mid palate, but then again I had spent most of January
2013 tasting en primeur Burgundy 2011s so perhaps my frame of reference wasn’t entirely
fair. Many thanks to Patrick Adank for the wines.
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