Friday, 28 October 2011

CUWS M11 - Malartic Lagraviere

Tasted Wednesday, 19 October 2011.

A flight of wines from the portfiolio of Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere for Cambridge University Wine Society; many thanks to Jean-Jacques Bonnie for leading such an interesting and informative tasting. Red wines were tasted before the whites

2007 Diam Andes Gran Reserva Red

DiamAndes grows and vinifies wine that accounts for approximately 25% of the Clos de los Siete blend, a wine which I have previously reviewed here.

A 70/30 blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Inky black, deep colour, lots of black berry and black currants; some sweet vanilla and slight spice on the nose. Full mouthfeel, quite textured; its dripping with so much dark fruit, its basically a fruit bomb; some woody tones with decent acidity still there though; on the finish its rather tannic but quite long. Big, full bodied stuff, maybe over the top at the moment but should improve for at least 5-15years.

2008 Chateau Gazin Rocquencourt Rouge

Lots of fruit, dark berries; lots of spice and dusted white pepper; fruit really shows on the nose, quite open and yielding. Palate quite full, ripe fruits, vibrant acidity; its forward, fresh and mostly fruit driven; tannic only towards the end. You can feel that theres some tension, this wine hasn't fully unravelled itself. 5-10years.

2006 Chateau Gazin Rocquencourt Rouge

Crushed red fruits, more sour cherry, even tending towards raspberries, almost soft; not as open on the nose. Mouthfeel interesting, its distincly softer and more mellow; decent acidity still, fruit shows different structure - its lost the round, frontal fruit hit, instead evolving to a more sustained fruit structure on the mid palate; tannin only towards the end. 3-7years.

2008 Reserve de Malartic Rouge

Dark fruits there, blackcurrants and berries, maybe a bit of sweet spice, nothing much on the nose. Palate is full, nice acidity and plenty of it too,really quite vibrant and fresh; black berry and sour dark plums. Lively tannins on the end; drinking well now to 5-7years. On the night, this was the most drinkable and enjoyable red.

2008 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere Rouge

Black berries, sour plums again, quite hot, really fruit forward, some cassis. Far more textured, bigger, denser wine but still showing vibrant acidity, really bright actually; concentration of fruit is notable. Nice length, grainy tannins, drinking window for another 5-20years.

2005 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere Rouge

Dark cherry, some black currants too, more star anise and spice, also rustic touches, maybe slight cigar box and mahogany. Palate is bright, lots of plump ripe fruits; dark berries and cherries mostly; acidity is still there. It still feels rather big now; textured and complex, this wine needs time to express itself fully, lots of tension still. Good, lengthy but still tannic finish; in terms of absolute quality, it is far and away the best red wine of the night; to improve 5-20+ years.

2003 Chateau Malartic Magraviere Rouge

So bright on the nose, sour cherry, raspberry, even strawberry; liquor like; touch of heat and even dusty notes showing through. Palate is lighter, settled, not as bright and vibrant as the younger brothers; the acidity still there, does feel a touch cooked. After the 2005, this feel substantially thinner and less textured on the palate but is still an interesting wine on its own right. Drinking well now to 3-10years.

2010 DiamAndes Chardonnay

White fruits, peaches, some grapefruit; rather sweet nose, vanilla perhaps; purity shows. Full palate, actually rather heavy and textured; lots of white fruit, well rounded yet still dense. Acidity not that prevalent but enough, can be enjoyed happily on its own. Big, for a white wine.

2010 Chateau Gazin Rocquencourt Blanc

Lime, lots of lemon sherbet; almost floral, citrus peel, like air freshener; very fresh, shows vibrancy. Really racy acidity with crisp minerality; so much fruit, vibrant and zingy. Good density of flavour; big fruit, the oak weight can be felt on palate; decent persistence.

2009 Reserve de Malartic Blanc

Ripe fruits, peaches mostly; fatness even on the nose, some floral tones. Vibrancy, more oak can be felt, some texture, but there isn't as much fruit showing, decent acidity but lacking in concentration. Unfortunately rather forgettable.

2009 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere Blanc

Again white fruits, peaches and apricot, some citrus peel and sherbet, rather closed. Great vibrancy and acidity, lively palate, nicely textured, lots of fruit. Good concentration and length, staying power, feels substantial. Beautiful balance, showing nicely now.

2007 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere Blanc

Peaches and apricot on the nose, theres a semillon like nose going on; but is quickly overtaken by floral, acacia like tones; there is so much high, exotic notes on this, the wine almost dances on the nose. On the palate some of the primary fruit has settled down, but theres still so much acidity; great concentration of flavours. The length is remarkable, such staying power. Integrated, very together; in short, a superlative wine.

2003 Chateau Malartic Lagraviere Blanc

The white fruits is still there, but not as lively on the primary fruit front. More wood showing, perhaps even a touch oxidative. Decent acidity, but the fruit is rather muted and settled; theres still some linger on the finish but I'm afraid I feel some of the fruit has dried out. At this tasting, very much overshadowed by the 2007; drinking nicely now but I'm not sure I'd want to keep it much longer.

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