CUWS E12 - Garden Party

Friday, 22 June 2012.

A selection of wines shown at Cambridge University Wine Society's Garden Party, held in the Scholars' Garden, St John's College, Cambridge. Stockist and retail prices are indicated, where known.

2002 Pol Roger Vintage

B+(+)

Pol Roger's current vintage champagne, released earlier in 2012. Biscuity, bready with some oxidative character, theres yeasty notes there, baked mushroom. Lots of acidity, lemony flavours; there decent persistence and width on the mid palate but still very much structured; feels quite linear, taut and young. Good vibrancy and focus, many many years ahead of it.

2009 Ridgeview Fitzrovia Rose Brut
Wine Pantry £28.99 | A-

50% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir and 22% Pinot Meunier. Red fruit on the nose: strawberry and red currants, hint of development and bready notes, but its really fresh and lively, primary characters showing. Palate is rounded; good ripe fruit, fresh acidity and structure given by the Chardonnay; strawberry freshness, summer in a bottle. Brilliantly put together, I think the quality is right up there among the best English sparkling roses; good value too (from The Wine Society, anyway). Absolutely perfect with strawberries and cream.

2000 Pol Roger Vintage
A 

Served from a jeroboam. Only got a tiny amount of this. Much prefer this than the 2002 - felt more precise and focused yet also more generous, just more of everything. Impeccably structured yet so expressive, quintessence of what proper vintage Champagne in a brilliant year ought to be.

2007 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Vielles Vignes, Domaine Marc Morey & Fils.
Roberson Wine £35.95 | A

Buttery, creamy and sweet vanilla showing; the oak treatment is prominent and very forward; theres also ripe citrus undertones; voluptuous and fragrant. On the palate, plenty of ripe fruit to carry the oak treatment; full bodied and layered mouthfeel, generous flavours; very ripe acidity to. In short: a complete wine, very classy and well put together, from a fabulous Burgundy vintage and this does not disappoint; showing wonderfully at the moment, drink now - 2020+.

Riberach Synthese Rose, Cotes des Catalanes
B+

100% Carignan. Light salmon pink in colour. Nose isnt full on fruity, quite subdued; on the palate theres plenty of bright red fruit, strawberries and the like, nice texture to this, its almost minerally. Well balanced, this isnt your simple summer quaffer, demands slightly more.

2009 Hartenberg Sauvignon Blanc
B

Correct varietal nose - green notes of grass and leaves, some tropical fruit (guava and passion fruit), but the varietal greenness is what dominates. Some grapefruit-like pith on the mouthfeel along with citrus; clean and fresh flavours, the greenness does carry through on the palate. A correct, but perhaps rather simple wine.

2011 Albarino, Lagar de Bouza, Rias Baixas
Cambridge Wine £11.99 | B+

Very brief notes - lemony nose, palate is clean as a whistle, high acidity dominated by steely citrus flavours; really cleansing and refreshing feel on the palate, crying out for some sunshine and seafood.

2004 Saar Riesling Spatlese, Wiltinger Schlangengraben, Weingut Johann Peter Reinert.
Cambridge Wine £12.90 | A-

Reviewed previously here.

2011 Welcombe Hills Hollow Meadow. Warwickshire, England.
Wine Pantry £13.99 | B+

A blend of Bacchus and Auxerrois. Nose is of citrus, granny smith apples and green pears; quite aromatic and lively, theres a hint of white lilies / flowers there. Palate is fresh, citrus dominates with some green pears too, hints of minerality, theres some pithy bitterness towards the finish. Overall, very balanced and fresh; perfect for summer, enjoy with or without food. Impressive effort.

2010 AOC Mont-sur-Rolle, Domaine Maison Blanche. Switzerland.
B+

This is one of four Swiss wines below which I tasted very quickly, without making much written tasting notes. Grape variety in this one is Chasselas - neutral some citrus, not much by way of flavour; clean, bone dry and refreshing, a 'neutral' white wine.

2010 Aligote de Peissy, Cave & Domaine Les Perrieres. AOC Geneve.
B

Neutral nose, citrus and a touch of spritz. Searingly high acidity on the palate, like sucking on lemons; quite intense citrus flavours coming through, acidity is mouth contorting. Perhaps food might temper it?

La Chenaie, Gamay de Peisy, Cave & Domaine Les Perrieres. AOC Geneve.


Cuvee Noble Rouge, Domaine La Capitaine. Switzerland.

2010 Moscato d'Asti DOCG, Bosc Dla Rei, Beni di Batasiolo

Reviewed in the Batasiolo tasting here - very popular at the Garden Party this year.

NV Moscato Frizzante, Cantine Volpi.
Cambridge Wine Merchants £9.49 | B+

Reviewed previously here - another CUWS Garden Party favourite, popular today as it was last year.

Ardbeg Day 2012

Saturday, 2 June 2012; tasted at Ardbeg Embassy @ Cambridge Wine Merchants, Bridge Street

Ardbeg Day (Feis Ile) 2012
£60 at Cambridge Wine and selected other Ardbeg Embassies

At first, whiffs of salt, brine, sea weed and iodine on the nose; then follows a good whack of smoky peat, with nice warmth and spice, particularly anise; also showing slight sherry sweetness and richness there, even sweet citrus and oranges; good volatile notes. Really opens up with a bit of water, inviting warmth and vanilla showing. On the palate its quite rich, whilst retaining a smoky peat and some salty notes; I'd put this as a blend between the briny and peaty precision of a Corryvreckan and the oloroso-influenced sweetness of an Uigeadail - best of both worlds, I'd say. Great expression, another wonderful Ardbeg (they dont ever make bad stuff, do they) ...

CUWS E12 - Beni di Batasiolo & Molino di Grace

Wednesday 16 May 2012.

A selection of wines from Beni di Batasiolo & Molino di Grace presented to Cambridge University Wine Society. The tasting note below follows the order in which the wines were presented, prices are retail (inc VAT) to London Wine Deliveries.

2007 Batasiolo Spumante Metodo Classico
£17.64 | B

A 75/25 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, methode Champenoise.
Touch of yeast and development, green appley, neutral white stone fruits. Very ripe and large, fat fruit dominates the palate, huge fruit hit at the beginning; doesn't feel fully dry, low acidity; feels diffuse and lacks precision. In all, good balance and of some interest.

2011 Batasiolo Gavi del Commune di Gavi Granee DOCG
£11.34 | B+

Bright stone fruit, peachy, with some floral touches; decent aromatics showing. On the palate its clean with relatively high acidity, very fresh and nervy; citrus dominated flavour, but its quite simple and one dimensional. High toned, cheerful wine.

2009 Batasiolo Barbera d'Alba Sovrana DOC

£12.06 | B+

Plums, bright fruit; quite jammy and sweet on the nose, sweet licorice and dried herbs; almost smells confected / commercial; quite hot and high alcohol? Bright acidity, sour red plums and cherries, quite light in fruit and body; its too fleeting for my liking. Light, cheerful, hardly any tannins, you could even chill this ...

2008 Molino di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG
£14.36 | B+

Dark fruit, some plummy character, smells ripe and sweet; black peppercorn with earthy touches, cherry liquer too. Palate shows high acidity, sour red cherries; decent extraction, some grainy grip towards the finish; nice presence. A more clean modern style, its fruit forward and not rustic; pretty but rather simple.

2006 Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
£19.28 | B+(+)

Less primary fruit and brightness in the nose, replaced by some dusty earthy notes, sweet spice, peppercorn and herbs; theres almost a floral touch too, beautiful aromatics. More developed flavours, theres roudned red fruits but it takes back seat; mouthfeel is less edgy, much more polished, integrated feel; perhaps due to the time spent in barrels. Some grip at end, this will develop and open up with time, drink now- 2020+.

2006 Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva il  Margone DOCG
£25.20 | B+(+)

Dark brooding nose, dark primary fruits with sweet vanilla and black pepper spice; quite stalky / woody, licorice. Lots of fruit on the palate, quite spicy and more obvious grippy tannins; feels bigger and more muscular; verging on being too extracted / trying too hard. I fear this is aiming for power and in the process losing some of its charm and elegance, perhaps time will temper it; drink 2016-2025+.

2006 Molino di Grace Gratius Super Tuscan IGT
£30.24 | B+(+)

Only Sangiovese, this is basically a Chianti Classico DOCG but for some reason (marketing perhaps?) is branded as a Super Tuscan IGT.
Dark fruit and brooding, quite jammy black berries; but there is some aromatic notes, its quite complex; warming sweet spice with blackpepper too. On the palate, dark fruit dominates with vibrant acidity; good concentration and integration of flavours, nice mid palate presence; quite rustic, isn't over extracted; charming style and distinctly showing more complexity. This needs to unfurl, drink 2016-2026. Really good wine, but why couldnt they just call it a Chainti Classico DOCG?

2007 Batasiolo Barolo Base Batasiolo DOCG
£21.17 | B

Red fruit, some aromatic high notes which almost piercing, red cherry liquer; dusted black pepper with woody overtones. Fresh, high acidity, sour red cherry, plenty of grainy grip, tannins very much alive and kicking; red primary fruit dominates, unfortunately quite simple and straight forward flavours; though still  representative of an entry level Barolo

2006 Batasiolo Barolo Cru la Corda della Briccolina DOCG
£37.93 | B+(+)

Slightly darker fruit, ripe and sweet; sweet fragrant oak coming through, vanilla and the slight charring of oak; then spice and woody aniseed notes; charming, beautiful nose. Fruit is good, more noticeable grainy grip, the oak again comes though lending a a fuller, sweeter feel; nice balance but hasnt reached its peak yet; needs time for the flavours to integrate and open up; drink 2015-2025+.

2006 Batasiolo Barolo Cru Cerequio DOCG
£34.91 | A-(+)

Sweet, red fruit, quite forward on the nose; touch of woody notes and slight coffee earthiness; attractive nose, exuding rustic charm. Sweet red fruit with high acidity, nice length on the mid palate; not exactly big but its very focused and long; lovely intensity, red cherries dominate with sweet spice. Elegant and very charming, good potential for mid term aging, drink 2015-2025+.

2001 Batasiolo Barolo Cru Bofani DOCG
£34.91 | B+(+)

Dark fruit, some earthy and woody notes. Good fruit, dark primary flavours; bit bigger and more muscular, deeper extraction with slightly less freshness and acidity; feels much firmer and dense. Not as pretty or expressive as its older brother, but still has some future ahead, drink now - 2015+.

2000 Batasiolo Barolo Cru Bofani DOCG
£34.91 | A-(+)

Dark fruit, but nose is dominated by secondary aromas - earthy truffles, mushroom and leather, theres also savoury meaty / gamey nose, perhaps even sweaty; peppercorns still there, plenty of development. Red fruit on the palate, nice acidity still, red cherry still so bright and lively; concentrated flavours, long mid palate, theres a touch of grip at the end reminding you its got a future ahead of it. Expressive and complex, feels supremely integrated and together, such balance and poise; great stuff, drink now - 2017+.

2010 Batasiolo Moscato d'Asti DOCG

£9.83 | B

Lively effervescence; very grapey, sweet apples, floral and honeyed notes; primary characters showing. A desert wine, its basically alcoholic sweet grape juice; simple flavours, very cheerful; clean, not cloying and flows nicely.

CUWS L12 - CVNE

Wednesday, 14 March 2012.

A tasting of CVNE wines for Cambridge University Wine Society, led by Brigitte Hennesy of Hatch Mansfield, CVNE's UK agents.

2010 Monopole Viura
B

White stone fruit, white peach also red apples; fresh and fruit forward, possibly even floral; lifted nose. Cool, low acid; fruit is there, but unremarkable, touch of green apples; rather neutral.

2010 Cune Barrel Fermented Blanco
B+

Nutty oak, slight developed nose; savoury touches. Palate is larger and fatter, the acidity is more persistent and generous, theres white fruit but also buttery, savoury tones. Quite interesting on the palate, better texture..

2011 Cune Rioja Rosado
B+

Vibrant, bright attractive red hue. Fruit driven, notes of strawberry and sweet raspberries, lifted freshness, lively. Clean, fresh red fruit; lifted, a touch off dry, shows the ripeness of fruit; medium acidity. Such a bright and vivacious Rose, great summer quaffer; drink as soon as possible, you dont want to miss out on its brightness.

 2009 Monopole Tempranillo
B+

Red plums and red cherries; sweet spices with a touch of woody licorice. Palate is filled with soft fruit, red plums; not fully extracted, crunchy red fruit; freshness is dominant, not tannic at all. Almost made in a Beaujolais style, you could perhaps even chill this.

2008 Cune Crianza
B+

Still plums but getting darker, more sweet spices and sweet vanilla; some secondary notes of leather, woody too. Fresh acidity on the palate; red fruit, plums and cherries; vibrancy about this, good fruit with a noticeable tannic grip at the end; everything is integrated and balanced. Nice expression.

2007 Cune Reserva
B+

Red fruit, slightly more volatile with notes of liqueur; warming sweet spices and a good whack of vanilla, fragrant. Palate shows good fruit though perhaps a touch hot / alcoholic; lots of fruit; slightly more weight and extraction, a bigger wine than the Crianza. Still freshness runs through; actually feel less balanced than the Crianza.

1999 Imperial Gran Reserva
B+

Quite muted, sour cherries and red currants; volatile sweet spice, not fully expressive and forward. Rather tart acidity; sour raspberries, tart currants; flavours are more focused, almost linear; the spice and development can be felt at the back. Not sure this is showing as well as it could.

2005 Vina Real Gran Reserva
A-

Sweet spice to the fore, developed secondary notes of tanned leather, cedar and mahogany; big, expressive, also sweet vanilla. Good fruit concentration; darker berries and plums, still good freshness and acidity; very together. Ready now but will reward further cellaring, drink now - 2020+.

2004 Pagos de Vina Real
B+(+)

Dark fruit, sweet spice and woody licorice; quite alcoholic, brooding wine. On the palate, dark fruit of black berries, dark plums; quite woody, linear tannin grips; more extraction and concentration of flavours; lashings of sweet oak and ripe fruit. Theres maybe a bit of freshness from the acidity, but its getting awfully close to being unbalanced. Big bold wine, dare I say Parkerised? Drink now - 2020+

2005 Contino Graciano
B+

Red plums, nice fragrance coming through, sweet spice, vanilla and even dried herbs. Good concentration, acidity on the higher side, giving it a good freshness, dark fruit looms in the background, ripe tannins. Though the tasting note seems entirely normal, theres something unusual in the palate which I cant exactly point out...

2008 Contino Vina del Olivo
A-(+)

Red fruit of plums and cherries; kirsch / liquer like nose too; then secondary savoury notes of game and cured meat, a ferral / earthy note with sweet Chinese five spice; old school nose, very attractive. Nice acidity, plenty of dark fruit; extracted and concentrated mouthfeel; woody licorice notes on the long finish; very good structure showing in the wine; fruit, oak and spice all integrated. A great, classy wine, my favourite of the night (by a good distance); will reward cellaring; drink now - 2025+.

CUWS L12 - Villa Maria

Wednesday, 07 March 2012.

A tasting of Villa Maria wines for Cambridge University Wine Society, led by Fiona Mottershaw of Hatch Mansfield, Villa Maria's UK agent. Wines are widely stocked by national retailers Majestic and Waitrose Wine

2011 Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc
B

Tropical nose, passion fruit, maybe guava, even white stone fruits; but theres a wet stones, pebbles by the river nose too; quite muted and only a touch leafy, which I must say is most unexpected for a NZ Sauv Blanc. Fresh acidity, clean and simple fruit on the palate, citrus; not particularly generous on the fruit front, bit mean.

2011 Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc
B+

Cooked (not raw) asparagus; vegetal, really aggressive and overwhelmingly so; also over-ripe / slightly rotten stone fruits; weird nose, quite off putting and not attarctive to my liking. Palate is fatter, vibrant yet generous acidity, quite filling; more passion fruit and tropical fruits showing on the palate; decent intensity of fruit.

2011 Private Bin Riesling
B

Lemon, maybe some apples, slight air-freshener like spritz, really hard to pick the nose. Fat lemons on the palate, width, acidity is generous and is the most dominant thing and as a result feels a bit aggressive and mouth contorting.

2011 Private Bin Gewurztraminer
B

Apple, elderflower, white flower, maybe lychee and passion fruit, also spritz on the nose. Not much by way of acidity, elderflower and apple carries through, touch of spice at the end; unfortunately rather flat, the fruit is unremarkable and rather insipid.

2010 Cellar Selection Chardonnay
B+

Nose is mostly butter, creamy oak; almost quite sweet. Palate is quite large and generous, decent fruit concentration; no savoury touches (unexpected given the overtly oaky nose), its only white fruits. Good fruit hit at the beginning but disappears quickly.

2008 Cellar Selection Syrah
B+

Black currant, black berries too, cordial but rather cool jamminess; wooden stalky notes, smells heavy, almost oily. Fresh, lots of fruit; bright acidity, really zingy and fresh in style and character; lots of sour blackberries; touch of spice on the finish. Not your heavy fruit bomb this; a cooler, fresher and lighter style showing; a nod towards Northern Rhone perhaps?

2008 Reserve Merlot
B+

Sweet, almost cooked compote, blackberries but very sweet and jammy; dark plums; also smoke there, smells like burnt something. Fresh still, fat acidity; lots of fruit but again its bright and juicy; some tannic grip too. Well put together.

2009 Cellar Selection Pinot Noir
B+

Pale ruby, red berries, cranberry and bright raspberry; also some earthy, farmyard, maybe even stalky; some whiffs of savoury bacon. Bright red fruit on the palate, ripe raspberry and red cherries; fresh acidity and lightness is key here, not extracted, clean lighter style.


2007 Single Vineyard Seddon Pinot Noir
A-

Earthy, deep farmyard and truffled nose; savoury touch, cured meats; sweet spice too; really complex and very Burgundian nose. Fresh still, more depth showing, intense and concentrated; dark cherries, theres sweet oak but integrated. Sweet and pure fruit with a nice savoury touch; very together, really rather long finish. Classy stuff.

Formal Hall

Four wines with dinner; Sunday, 26 February 2012.

1999 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay
A-

Medium gold colour. Slightly rancid butter, nutty oak and hazelnuts; slight aldehyde tones and creme fraiche; the maturity shows in the slight oxidative nose. Acidity is wide on the palate, nutty notes comes through; the appley and lemony fruit is to the background; decent length actually, not expansive more of a focused mid palate. The sweet nutty oak is the most dominant flavour here, gradually opens up to reveal a bit more fruit and generosity; complex and structured, but perhaps slightly past its best; drink up.

1998 d'Arenberg 'The Dead Arm' Shiraz
A-

Classic Shiraz notes: black currants, high notes of violets and blackcurrant cordial, wine gums, also eucalyptus; so lifted and voluptuous on the nose. Palate is wide, generous, fruit is extracted but isn't punchy; rounded and settled, sweet blackcurrant and black berries, slight jamminess; good acidity showing too, lingering finish. A touch of tannins towards the end, but understated. Very together; probably at its peak around now, drink now - 2018+.

2008 Ladies who Shoot Their Lunch Shiraz
B+

Cooked, slightly jammy dark fruit, woody tones and licorice. Masculine and extracted, the dark fruit here is structured and still very tightly-knit, quite one dimensional still, good amount of tannic grip. Needs time to relax and open up.

2009 Feller-Artinger Beerenauslese
Waitrose Wine £11.67 | B+

Honeyed nose, with floral touches, smells quite heavy. On the palate its full of dried fruits, tinned peaches and the like; nectarines and perhaps some tropical elements; feels a bit light for a Beerenauslese, was expecting slightly more concentration. Felt fleeting and lacking in weight.

Plus several wines tasted during the week which merits a mention.

1978 Chassagne Montrachet, Joseph Drouhin
B+

A mature red Chassagne Montrachet. Wonderful mature, farmyard and earthy nose, along with red currants and cranberries, with a touch of sweet spice and bloody / rusty tones. Soft on the palate, plenty of fresh acidity still, vibrant and not tired at all; needed some air to open up; the freshness was a welcome surprise. Delightful.

2006 Las Moras Three Valleys Gran Shiraz
Naked Wines £17.99 | A-

Depth on the nose; dark fruit compote and bramble, along with a floral touch to this, lots of high notes but doesnt have alcoholic notes. On the palate its fully extracted; such concentration of dark fruits here; blackberries and dark plums, yet feels together, doesnt feel overdone; oak treatment was absorbed into the substantial fruit; touch of grainy tannins at the end An excellent example of a cool, but fully extracted Shiraz.Big and bold and yet still very classy; might improve with time; drink now - 2015+

2010 Casa Defra Pinot Grigio Rose
Cambridge Wine £7.25 | B

Nice pink hue on this wine; its not the most complex rose you will ever have, but it does have decent fruit structure; slightly more fruit and weight to this than your basic Pinot Grigio; fresh acidity. Should go well with salmon and other slightly more meaty fish.

CUWS L12 - Guigal

A tasting of Guigal wines for Cambridge University Wine Society led by Brett Crittenden. Guigal's UK distributors are Fells Fine Wines. As you can tell from the pictures, very elaborate and artistic bottles / labels; the bottles are on the heavy side but I thought the embossing on them was a classy touch.

2009 Saint-Joseph Blanc
B

Attractive white fruits, mainly peaches; also rather floral, white flowers, quite sweet, lilies, even acacias; lifted nose. Fresh acidity, textured minerality showing, decent width on the palate; generous but still quite linear. Lots of fruit but it isnt in your face, more mature and muted.

2010 Saint-Joseph Blanc Lieu Dit
B+

Lots of ripe white fruit again, peaches; again sweet floral showing, touch of vanilla; richer, slightly more heady on the nose. Again the mainstay is the minerality and texture; filling mouthfeel, more serious and concentrated, lush ripe fruits; decent but rather low acidity, touch of spice on the finish too. A bigger, fleshier wine but still focused.

2010 Condrieu
B+

Thicker nose, almost waxy; sweet white fruits, almost over ripe / slightly rotten fruits, again minerality; also acacia and floral too; beautiful nose. Nice texture, more forward sweet fruit showing; more opulent, richer, fatter fruit; thicker in texture, low acid, fat and generous. Lingering finish coats the palate.

2010 Condrieu 'La Doriane'
A-(+)

Rich opulent nose; oak its evident, sweet vanilla and butter, honey too; floral elements are lifted, white flowers; behind all that lingers sweet white fruits, ripe apricots and peaches; again bees wax, smells honeyed. On the palate its rich and textured, a lot of fruit; intense flavours, luscious, thick. Huge, powerful stuff; lots of oak but theres a lot of fruit to carry it; again low acid, but isn't at all flabby; slight savoury and spicy touch towards the finish. Structured, luxurious power; a serious wine.

2005 Chateauneuf du Pape

B+

Jammy cooked red fruit; earthy and ferral, touch of garrigue there; also woody notes, licorice; hot almost liquer like too. Lots of fruit, decent extraction but not overdone; fruit dominates, dark cherries and plums, juicy but has a stalky element too. Has settled down, isn't punchy; balance is key here; drink now - 2015.


2006 Saint-Joseph Rouge
B+

Lifted and bright dark fruits, maybe a touch of violets; some cured meat / reductive notes, dried herbs, touch of developed notes; white pepper too. On the palate its fresh and bright, almost crunchy red fruit, good vibrant fresh acidity, feels taut and rather mean actually. This already has some time in bottle and probably will run out of fruit before acidity; drink now.

2005 Cote Rotie 'Brune et Blonde'
B+

Red fruit, some savoury, almost reductive element to this; warmth of spice coming through, a touch volatile on the nose. Fruit is good and fresh, red currants and red cherries, delicate even; lively acidity with decent grip at the end. Feels a bit light and fleeting to me, doesnt have the concentration of fruit?.

2005 Chateau d'Ampuis
A-(+)

Dark fruit, but rather closed; underlying cassis and ripe dark plums, slightly woody and licorice, perhaps even coffee; also a gamey / meaty note and garrigue showing; quite brooding and deep. Extracted but not heavy at all, depth and intensity; lots of fruit, such freshness and fat acidity gives background; lots of dark fruit here, concentrated stuff; grainy tannins at the end, should age a good long while. This spent 38 months in new oak and yet it is barely out of joint, shows how much fruit there was and how it has integrated. Impressive effort; for the long haul, drink now - 2025+.

CUWS L12 - Vega Sicilia

Friday, 17 February 2012.

A tasting of Grupo Vega Sicilia wines for Cambridge University Wine Society, led by Xavier Ausas Lopez de Castro, Technical Director of Vega Sicilia. The group currently consists of four wineries (soon to be five, the latest addition being a joint venture with the Rothschilds in Rioja): Bodegas Alion in Ribera del Duero, Bodega Pintia in Toro, Oremus in Hungary, and its flagship Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero. The Alvarez family that owns Vega Sicilia are now proud members of Primum Familiae Vini. UK distributors are Fields, Morris & Verdin; wines below should be widely available at premium retailers.

2010 Oremus 'Mandolas' Dry Tokaji
B+

100% Furmint. Chalky, good minerality showing; touch of spritz, fresh, whiter floral characteristics; maybe some green apples, also lemons; delightful. Fresh, clean acidity on the palate; a tad sharp but still rather fat, surprising width and generosity; lemony feel; apparently theres a little bit of oak treatment, but its seamlessly integrated.  Unfortunately short on the finish; good balance, I dont think it'll improve with time.

2008 Pintia
B+(+)

100% Tempranillo; no more than 12 months in 100% new oak (70/30 French/American); bottle aged for at least 2 years before release.
Dark fruit, black berry brambles; feels quite hot but also showing floral / violet notes; earthy secondary notes: gamey, cured meat and ferral, hints of dark chocolate; rustic is probably a good description of this wine. Extracted dark berries and ripe dark cherries, rather warming, woody licorice; does feel rather woody / earthy actually, grainy tannins towards the end. A big fruit driven wine, but not overly extracted or punchy, still retains a nimble balance; drink now - 2020+.

2008 Alion
B+(+)

100% Tempranillo; 14-18 months in 100% new French oak; bottle aged for at least 2 years before release. Bright, fresh blue berries and dark berries; vibrant aromatics going on, lifted floral notes of violets and blue bells. Lots of fruit on the palate, ripe dark berries and cherries again, good fruit expression; again showing balance, not overly extracted; tannins are ripe. Doesn't feel at all hot, freshness and bright fruit speaks volumes here, flavour concentration without sacrificing elegance; drink now - 2020+.
An interesting contrast to the Pintia above; where the Pintia is more masculine, the Alion is more feminine; while both still retains flavour intensity and balance; reminds me of stereotypical Pauillac / Margaux divide.

Valbuena is one of only three wines made by Vega Sicilia, though they stressed that Valbuena is not a 'second wine' to the Unico in the same way that say Carruades is Lafite's second wine. Typically a blend of 80-90% Tempranillo (or Tinto Fino, as they call it), the rest being made up by Merlot and Malbec. Maturation: for varying amounts of time (depending on vintage) in a combination of new French and American oak barrels, followed by a shorter time in used oak barrels, then further bottle aged before being released, which is at least 5 years after the vintage.

2006 Vega Sicilia Valbuena
A-(+)

Dark brooding colour. Blackberries and ripe dark plums; heady and sweet (some vanilla coming through), almost rather port like on the nose; some high notes, woody and licorice too and garrigue earthiness in the background. Lots of good extracted fruit, dark plums; textured mouthfeel; everything so far makes you think it'll be big and would knock you out, but its so smooth and silky on the palate. Concentration of flavours, nice balance in everything; tannins are ripe and grainy, only grips on the finish. Freshness and elegance even in its youth, nothing is overdone, drink now - 2025+.

2000 Vega Sicilia Valbuena
A-(+)

Black fruits and dark cherries, some floral tones too, but also developing a slight reductive character: meaty/ ferral and earthy, along with herbal / garrigue notes; very attractive nose. Palate is rounded, red fruits, ripe red cherries; bright and sweet fruits, still so fresh and vibrant. Good levels of acidity; so yielding on the palate, everything integrated; velvety tannins on the finish. A study in balance and poise. Drink now - 2020+.

Unico is the flagship in the Vega Sicilia range, and not made every year (not a single bottle of Unico made in 1992, 1993, 1997 and 2001, in recent decades). It is fermented and undergoes malolactic in large 8-10,000 litre French oak barrels. This is then followed by maturation in 100% new oak barrels - half French, half American, made at their own on site cooperage - Xavier likens this treatment to making the wine go to the gym / workout. It is then followed by some time in used oak barrels, for what Xavier terms the 'education' stage for all the components to integrate and mingle together. It is then further bottle aged before being released, at least 10 years after the vintage. Vega Sicilia will only release Unico when they deem it to be ready, on occasion younger vintages have been released prior to older ones.


2002 Vega Sicilia Unico
A-(++)

Muted nose, slowly opens up to show the fruit, theres dark fruits but not to the fore; garrigue, sweet vanilla, and secondary notes creeping up. Gentle entry; dark fruit is not to the fore, concentrated but not brash, such elegance and grace. I must admit, it isn't as powerful as I expected, though still has good concentration and definitely complexity, still a tad shy. Flavours come in waves, bigger on finish than on the entry; very long finish. Grainy tannic grip only showing at the end, gently reminding you that this is a wine for the long haul; drink 2020 - 2040+.

1996 Vega Sicilia Unico
A(+)

Dark fruits there, but showing more secondary characters: garrigue and fresh herbs, some cured meats too; still fresh, with lifted floral notes of rosehips; fruits very much in the background; wonderfully complex, stops you in your tracks and makes you think. On the palate its still fresh, so lively and vibrant, lots of acidity; sour red cherries, its rather lively / exuberant, and generous on the mouthfeel. Concentrated flavours and again waves of flavour, bigger in finish than entry, velvety tannins. A contrast in style to the 2002; this is more readily welcoming and eager to please. Drink now - 2030+

1994 Vega Sicilia Unico
A+(+)

Voluptuous nose: red plums and red cherries, sherbet and strawberry cream almost, then garrigue / truffled nose, sweet spice and licorice; sweet cedar / sandalwood and cigar box, almost like sweet incense; so much going on, awash with secondary notes; you could spend a good ten minutes just analysing the nose. Really fresh and bright on the palate, still so much fruit of red cherries and plums; very yielding and generous mouthfeel. Such complexity, every sip showing a whole other dimension of flavour; elegant and yet expansive; waves of flavour that really doesn't finish. Majestic and awe-inspiring, truly an exceptional wine; drink now - 2030+

2002 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos
A-

Tinned fruits / tinned pineapples, lychee; really sweet, honey and acacia on the nose. Lots of acidity still; lively, not heavy at all; sweet citrus and pineapples, candied lemons / marmalade and a tinge of bitterness at the end. Long, but the lingering element is the acidity and not the sweetness.

CUWS L12 - Penfolds

Thursday, 16 February 2012.

A tasting of Penfolds wines presented for Cambridge University Wine Society, led by Justin Knock MW. UK (and I think, global) distributors are Treasury Wine Estates. I think its fairly obvious that one quickly runs out of superlatives to describe the wines on the evening, many apologies if I sound like a broken record with the repeated notes of blackcurrants and cassis ...

2008 Yattarna
A-(+)

All Chardonnay, 85% of the fruit was sourced from Tasmania; official bin number is Bin 144. The wine was decanted approx. 4hrs before tasting.
A lot of butter and cream to this, savoury notes, roasted nuttiness there; very Burgundian, but so ripe. On the palate, first sweet ripe fruit, fat acidity; plenty of fruit. So complete, acidity and fruit is in such balance; concentration of flavours, restrained power. At this stage, very focused; still young, quite taut and highly strung. Immensely impressive; needs time to unfurl itself; drink now - 2020+.

2003 Yattarna
A

All Chardonnay, sourced entirely from Adelaide Hills.
Properly Burgundian, sweet oak, buttery and creamy; sweet almonds, also sweet tropical fruits of ripe mangoes, loaded with white peach, really rather voluptuous, open nose. Relatively soft acidity, gentle but very wide; flavours are intense, theres a nutty, savoury element to this; on the mid palate, a lot of fruit but such restrained power and sustained intensity on the palate. Very long, serious class.

2004 Bin 407
A-

Blackberry and black currants, cordial, licorice, mint and herbal tones coming through, coolness almost shows. On the palate, sweet ripe fruit, nice development to this; rounded black fruits on mid palate, not much tannins, very yielding. Good fruit concentration, isnt as generous but focused. This is probably close to full maturity, drink up.

2005 Bin 407
A-

Similar fruit profile to the 2004; more cassis, less licorice; sweet black fruits, smells warmer, the alcohol shows, probably from a hotter year. Fruit very rounded, blackcurrants and berries, feels like less concentration of fruit than the 2004 because it feels bigger and therefore a touch flabbier; bit more acidity, theres glycerol, an almost port like feel to it. I dont think this will improve with time, drink now 2014+.

2006 Bin 407
B+(+)

Black currants and cordial, mint and eucalyptus, some herbal, but theres almost a floral touch to this. Fresh, lots of fruit, black currants again; woody licorice notes; more obvious tannins, quite chewy but its ripe sweet tannins. Good concentration, if perhaps a touch hot / cooked (maybe because of the extreme drought stricken year), high alcohol perhaps? Tasted next to the Bin 707, this almost feels light. Could do with some time to fleshen out the tannins, drink now - 2017+.

1997 RWT
B+

RWT stands for Red Winemaking Trial, first made in 1997 where it had 100% new French oak.
A lot of high notes in this one, sweet black and blue berries, ribena; lots of aromatics / volatiles showing, almost floral quality to it, violets perhaps? So big and voluptuous, obvious sweet up front fruit; black currants and cassis; rounded though, does feel developed and settled. Doesnt punch your lights out; softened, no harsh edges; fully mature, drink now.

2001 RWT
A-

Attractive blue berry there, again showing lots of high notes, I'm thinking bluebells and violets again; also wine gum, and a whiff of reduction, cured meat and game. Obvious sweet fruit, black currants and cassis; theres a nice herbiness on the palate; complete, rounded dark fruit, has notes of maturity so its doesnt blow your head off, I can imagine this to be a pretty powerful beast in its youth. Wonderful presence; has developed and will continue to mature; drink now - 2017+.

2005 RWT
A-(+)

Blueberry and blackberry jam; theres a stewed / compote nose to this, like its cooked (in a good way); sweet floral notes, fragrant in an air freshener kind of way, fresh lavender and violets; really gorgeous aromatics (and how often do you say that of a red wine?), such lifted nose. Really good extraction again, plenty of fruit and concentration; dark berries to the max, almost meaty and savoury notes on palate; very interesting secondary notes beginning to show. Sweet but rounded tannins again, still grips, mind you, but its lush tannins; texture wise, this was the most creamy and interesting of the RWTs. Showing resplendently; this will continue to develop for many years, drink 2015-2022+.

2007 Bin 707
A-(+)

[This wine was tasted before the RWTs, the notes appear here primarily for editorial / pictorial reasons, but perhaps is a fair reflection in terms of its overall quality in the Penfolds range]
Black currants and cassis, more mint and eucalyptus, again theres a hotness to this on the nose; full nose. Big wine; lots of extraction on this with chewy but ripe tannins, grips all over the place, then dries your mouth on the finish. Good concentration of fruit (though somewhat overwhelmed by the tannic frame), black fruit, dark berries, cassis and the like; its a big wine; laced with fine acidity too. Properly structured, muscular, and powerful; one for the long haul, drink 2017 - 2030+.


2006 Grange
A(++)

Perfumed, black currants and blue berries; so lifted fragrance, floral notes leaps out (violets and the like), touch of sweet vanilla too; then you get the notes of dark chocolate / mocha and cassis; complex, lots of things going on. Good extraction; the entry is soft, then it builds in the palate, waves of flavour successively coming through; at this stage the fruit is very primary and intense, dark blackberries. The length is remarkable, just stays and lingers. So well put together, its muscular and big; the tannins are fleshy yet firm, lots of fruit for backbone. Its not often that a wine carrying such high expectations meets the hype. Integrated, great structure, so young, all its life ahead; approach from 2015 onwards, should drink well 2025 - 2050+.

Formal Hall

A glut of wine tasted on the nights, necessarily brief notes. Sunday, 12 February 2012.

1997 Crozes Hermitage 'Domiane de Thalabert' Paul Jaboulet Aine
The Wine Society | B+

Rounded red fruits on the nose, with some some rustic, earthy almost bloody / rusty nose to this; a bit too much volatile acidity for my liking. Palate is subdued, fruit is sour red cherries; unfortunately it wasnt exactly lively, though there was still decent acidity.
I had to open a second bottle as the first one had excessive VA and on the palate showed signs of premature aging, which is somewhat worrying since its been kept in perfect condition since en primeur purchase.

2004 d'Arenberg 'Laughing Magpie' Shiraz Viognier 

Plenty of black currants, cordial; pastilles and wine gums; high notes also there, almost floral. On the palate it shows very ripe fruits, but its tempered, lowered almost; still lush, sweet and fleshy, but not punchy. Great balance, freshness in acidity; very together, with a gentle tannic tug at the end. Having tasted a bottle of this pretty much every year since purchase, I'm delighted with how its developed; drink now - 2015+. Another great bottle from d'Arenberg, one wonders do they ever disappoint?

1976 Chateau Pichon Lalande, 2er Cru Pauillac.

On the nose, bell pepper and capsicum; cedar and cigar box; and hidden behind is dark morello cherries; theres the mustiness and slight damp wood notes you get from age, but in all, almost textbook aged Pauillac on the nose. On the palate its still fresh; rounded red fruit, red cherries; the bell peppery spice comes through, rounded acidity; hardly noticeable tannins. Nice presence, surprisingly generous mid palate and lengthy but understated, finessed finish. I was surprised by the liveliness given it was from a good but not great vintage.

NV Fernando de Castilla Antique Oloroso

Waitrose Wine £21.84 (50cl) | A-

Developed nose: nutty, roasted hazelnuts, oxidative characters, but also notes of candied / dried citrus fruits, touch of lacquer and polish too; I think theres a bit of raisins hiding behind all that too. Very complex on the palate, its nutty but also showing nice citrus like acidity, fresh and incisive, yet beautifully rounded and filling at the same time. Long finish, slightly drying savouriness towards the end, beckoning you for another sip. Excellent stuff. 

2009 Kayena Vineyards Tamar Ridge Limited Release Botrytis Riesling
Waitrose Wine £13 (37.5cl) | A-

A slight whiff of petrol; lots of sweet and dried citrus fruits, sweet tropicals of mango and pineapple; honey there too; an appealing and genuinely sweet nose. Palate is full on; sweet tropical fruits, vibrant acidity; great concentration, like a mini explosion of flavour in the mid palate. If not for the short finish, would have merited a higher rating; still highly recommended though.

CUWS L12 - Fonseca Port

A tasting of Fonseca ports presented by their brand ambassador, Lorenzo Bakewell-Stone, for Cambridge University Wine Society. Most of the wines are widely available in retail outlets; UK agents are Mentzendorff. Prices are retail to local wine merchants in Cambridge.

 Fonseca Siroco White Port
B

A dry white port. Smells characteristic of white port - slightly cheesy, along with vegetal (cabbages), definite oxidation there, also nutty. Just gently off dry, plenty of acidity, nutty oxidation too; fresh and light on the mouthfeel; slight bitterness at the end. Should be perfect as a long drink with tonic, ice and lime.

Fonseca Bin 27 Reserve Ruby Port
Noel Young £12.49 | B+

Their entry level ruby port. Dark fruit, black berry and cassis, smells quite hot actually, you can almost smell the spirit fortification; also licorice and woody. Lots of fruit, sweet, lush and simple; warmth comes through; bit of tannic group at the end. Actually rather good for an entry level port, better than your average rubies.

Fonseca Terra Prima Organic Reserve Port
B+

Organically grown. A more muted nose, black berry and cassis dominates, theres mint as well; not as voluptuous as the Bin 27. Sweet fruit, lush, dark plums with a savoury / woody touch; whereas the Bin 27 was more fruit forward in style, this is more restrained and focused. Also, I dont know of any other widely available organic ruby port.

2005 Fonseca Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage
Cambridge Wine £15.99 | B+

Lots of dark fruit, straightforward; sweet fruit, some spice. Theres more on the mouthfeel, improving in texture, slightly thicker; tannic grip also more prevalent. Less aggressive and fruity on the entry, but is more sustained; what I would describe as linear, perhaps.

Fonseca Crusted Port (bottled 2006)
B+(+)

Dark fruit, jammy; quite floral actually, also sweet spice. Lots of fruit, rounded and lush; sweet spice too, also showing more tannic grip on the finish. A touch more complexity and will probably develop with time, attractive style.

Fonseca 10 year old Tawny Port
(50cl) B+

Red fruit, dried red currants; good oxidative nose; lacquer and nutty notes. Still plenty of fruit on the palate, dried red fruits and raisins; fresh acidity there, nice vibrancy about this. A balanced expression, can be served slightly chilled.

1996 Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port
Cambridge Wine £29 | B+(+)

Produced in 'lesser' years when they dont declare vintage ports. Sweet, quite jammy, red fruit jelly on the nose, still mostly primary fruit showing; sweet spice too, also touch of mocha. Greater concentration of fruit on the palate, still plenty of primary dark fruits, plums and dark cherries; quite spicy on the palate. Does have decent tannic and acidity, should develop; drink now - 2020+.

1998 Fonseca Quinta do Panascal
Cambridge Wine £26 | B+

A single quinta vintage port; from a quinta that normally forms the backbone of the Fonseca vintage ports.
Slight brick red tinge on the rim, its almost too light. Red fruit, some figs, also floral nose. Palate feels a touch light and lacking in concentration, theres still primary red fruits, along with a spicy edge but it feels mature. Not much tannins, just rounded softness; this is ready to drink and I doubt it'll improve. Beginning to wonder whether its a slightly dodgy bottle?

1985 Fonseca Vintage Port
B+

Really holding it's colour, so deep still, barely a rim, such depth. Black berry, theres heat, almost wood smoke to this, lots of fruit showing, along with a touch of floral scent. Balance, sweet red fruit, still primary but not the most expressive of vintage ports; still fresh with good acidity. I think it will run out of fruit before acid, drink now - 2020+.

2009 Fonseca Vintage Port
B+(++)

The vintage that divided the two port dynasties with the Taylor Fladgate Partnership declaring all their wines (unusually, their fourth declaration in a decade) and the Symington Family Estates not declaring, apart from a small, mainly commemorative declaration of Warre's.

Completely opaque, dark, deep purple rim; really dark. So much dark fruit, cassis, jammy, some floral and mint; everything there, so big, the spirit fortification hasnt quite yet melded together with the wine. Ahhhh so much fruit concentration there, you can still taste the spirit actually; big, concentrated dark fruit, bitter chocolates. Tannins grip everywhere, this is a beast thats nowhere near ready; drink 2025-2045+.

CUWS L12 - CWM Southern Europe

A selection of wines from Cambridge Wine Merchants presented by Brett Turner for Cambridge University Wine Society; focuses on wines from Southern Europe, covering Southern France, Spain and Italy. Prices are retail to Cambridge Wine.

 2010 Lagar de Bouza Albarino
£11.99 | B+

Clean, citrus, touch of spritz; quite perfumed and lifted. Fresh, citrus dominated; cutting acidity which is quite bracing; sucking on juicy lemons; very refreshing, crying out for a good plate of seafood.

2010 Chateau Viranel 'Trilogie' Rose. Languedoc.
£8.99 | A-

Primary fruit on the nose, maybe red strawberries; also fresh citrus, with a touch of spritz in the nose. Acidity is firm but rounded, good fruit; theres a touch of body to this, unusual in that it had some texture, just a bit more complex than your average rose. Cheerful.

2010 Adesso Nero d'Avola. Sicily.
£7.99 | B

Red fruit, some violet; lots of warmth and sweet spice. Light fruit, not fully extracted; warmth in the wine again (perhaps the alcohol shows), some woody touches, attractive red fruit; fresh acidity. Again, not the most complex but very drinkable.

2007 Camillo de Lellis, Biferno Rosso Reserva. Molise.
£7.99 | B+

Funky nose, meaty, gamey, ferral mushroom, developed nose, smoked cured meats, again some violets. Nice fruit, good extraction, juicy; some woody notes, slight tannic grip, drying finish, rustic, charming, should be great with food.

2004 Domaine Combe Blanche 'La Chandeliere'. Minervois La Liviniere.
£13.95 | B+

Dark fruit; sweet spice, with lots of rustic charm; secondary notes of sweet oak with wild dried herbs. Nice depth of fruit, extracted, dark berries; texture is there, tannic grip at the end, quite big. Not a fruit bomb, gentle on the entry but is sustained; decent lingering finish. Has aged well and will continue to develop, drink now - 2015+.

2004 Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva
£17.99 | A-

Red cherries; lacquer and tanned leather; sweet oak, spice, cinnamon; textbook Rioja. Fresh, nice fruit expression, sweet red cherries and currants; not fully extracted; savoury with nice acidity, vanilla and warming spice. Sustained, but not large mid palate; everything in balance, drink now - 2015+.

2009 Torres 'Celeste' Crianza. Ribera del Duero.
£13.99 | B+(+)

Dark fruit, blackberry, sweet oak as well. Lots of fruit, extracted; made in a fruit forward style, dark and thick, brawny if you will; full blown fruit. Some chunky tannins at the end.

2007 Cedro do Noval. Douro.
£17.99 | B+

Dark fruit, savoury; cured meats bacon, smoke; something like cedar and sweet spice. Lots of dark currants and berries, not over extracted; some developed palate, quite full on in style; woody notes, licorice. Rather savoury on the finish.

NV Maury Solera 1928, Cask no 886, Les Vignerons de Maury.
£19.99 (50cl) | B+

Stewed fruits, dried prunes and plums; citrus rind and sweetened orange peel; walnuts, marmalade, oxidised, then coffee, cinnamon - the oxidation has done wonders on the nose, so complex, many things going on. Lots of acidity, really bright and fresh, orange and dried prunes; not sweet, only gently so but still rich and thick texturally, acidity really makes it refreshing. Zingy, nutty freshness.