Monday, 4 July 2016

Maison Louis Jadot

Jakarta, 31 May 2016

A tasting of Maison Louis Jadot wines from Burgundy, or more specifically, from the Cote d’Or, led by Sigfried Pic, Export Director. With thanks too to Franklin Huber of PT Bogacitra Nusapratama (Boga Fine Wine), who are Jadot’s distributors in Indonesia. The wines are written in the order they were tasted.

2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay

Pale yellow green in colour. On the nose, immediately sweet white fruits (peaches ) and lick of sweet vanilla , with some high notes showing too. On the palate, flvours are lemony with good fruity acidity; good entry but fades on midpalate, mouthfeel is pleasant. Balanced, well made if perhaps rather textbook Bourgogne Blanc; it is fresh, approachable yet food-friendly, intended for immediate consumption.

2012 Meursault Villages
Slightly deeper in colour. Aromas are of vanilla and creamy oak, fragrant and thick, follows through to white fruits and peach. Smells ripe and maybe a touch alcoholic. White fruit on the palate with lemons and some nuttiness too, more filing and creamy in texture; fruit is generous, acidity enough to keep it going and minerality on the finish. It is a more substantial and ‘bigger’ wine, suited to heavier dishes. A balanced, well-made wine that is proudly typical of Meursault; drink now – 2020.

2009 Beaune ‘Les Theurons’ Premier Cru

Fragrant, ripe red fruit, also some woody and stalky notes, touch of sweet oak too. On the palate, feels restrained and very linear, actually tastes quite closed and woody, the fruit is hidden away perhaps softened by age. Quite masculine in style, fresh acidity still and some tannins to keep it going. This will keep but I don’t think it’ll improve and given the fruit isn’t particularly expressive, I’d recommend drinking up, drink now - 2020.

2009 Beaune ‘Les Avaux’ Premier Cru

Red fruit, with some white pepper and roses, high notes also there. Theres more crunchy, fruity acidity on the palate, with flavours of unripe red cherries and raspberries. More generous in fruit and acid, wider and larger in the attack but fades too quickly. Theres some vivacity (especially acidity wise) on the palate, which is exciting but I just wished it lasts on the finish. Not unlike the Les Theurons, will keep but I don’t think it’ll improve, drink now – 2020.

2010 Pommard ‘Les Grands Epenots’ Premier Cru

Fragrant sweet oak, ripe red ruits, almost floral even; as it warms up, theres some undergrowth and stalky notes too. On the palate, the fruit and flavours are muted, everything seems together but not singing? The acidity is still lively, the tannins slightly softened out but should allow further aging. Disconcertingly, the entry, midpalate and finish tastes almost the same muted self. It is painfully inexpressive.

This is not typical of Pommard Grand Epenots. Some Burgundies are known to enter a ‘closed’ phase during their adolescence (hence the advice to drink young or wait 10+ years). If one is being kind, perhaps this Jadot Pommard Grands Epenots is in such a phase and in this case, I am inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt.

2008 Chambolle-Musigny Villages

Heading towards barnyard and rusty notes, quite developed notes that can only be from aged Burgundy; then fragrant and red fruits touches come back. Fresh acidity still, but the fruit has definitely taken a back seat, some might say faded away. Acidity is still vibrant and fresh, quite fruity even; tannins has softened too. Unfortunately, the fruit isn’t expressive and I get the sense that this wine is tired, far more so than a wine of its age should be, I have a suspicion that the storage conditions thus far has not been ideal.

Overall impressions

In the world of Burgundy, Maison Louis Jadot needs little introduction and this was an interesting snapshot from their frankly huge portfolio. The whites were straightforward, typical and correct: the Bourgogne Chardonnay balanced, the Meursault bigger and more textured. The two Beaune Premier Crus were very different from each other, the Les Theurons showing a more masculine edge to the rounder Les Avaux. Given that there are no Grand Crus in Beaune, these two Premier Crus do represent the finer end of Beaune, though I must say these two bottles aren’t the most expressive Beaunes I have tasted. The Pommard Grands Epenots, as written above, slightly confuses me and I don’t know what more I can add on that. In a terroir as fickle as Burgundy, it is worth noting that the Beaune and Pommard Premier Crus are from very good vintages, with good aging potential. The Chambolle-Musigny, from a lesser vintage, was a curiousity that is probably past its best. In all, certainly a thought provoking tasting.

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