CUWS Easter 2008 - Regional Australian
Peterhouse Upper Hall, 6 May 2008
A tasting held by CUWS and led by Chris Stroud, a representative from Fosters who own all the wineries featured in this tasting. He wanted to showcase wines from the 'premium' end of the portfolio, instead of the 3 for £10 stuff you get in Tesco, not that there is anything inherently wrong with those; also there is an attempt to show regionality and the effects this may have on the wine - you see, I've tried to be clever by not using the word terroir, but essentially thats what they're trying to show. Wines were tasted in pairs and prices indicated are approximates; most of the wines, bar the Devils Lair, should be widely available in major wine merchants.
Annies Lane Riesling 2006, Clare Valley
£8 - B(+)
Strong fruit characters coming through on the nose, lots of lime and tanginess; palate is clean and straight forward, mostly of white fruits. Its relatively light, aromatic, quite floral perhaps even slight solvent-like smells too. Its basically a good, light and happy; not completely devoid of class. Good drink for summer, slightly chilled perhaps. Drink now to 3 yrs.
Penfolds Reserve Bin Riesling 2005, Eden Valley
£10 - B+(+)
As of 2007, rebranded as Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling. Wonderful floral and kerosene-driven nose, there is sort of a gunmetal / metallic smell too. Theres flavours of marmalade, sour apples, mineral almost astringency (in a good way); its not fruit driven, there is something more developed and subdued. The only thing I thought was out of place was the cutting acidity, its just a bit too sharp for me, but hey, it might allow the wine to develop in the bottle. I'll be optimistic here, drink in 3-7 yrs
Devils Lair Chardonnay 2005, Margaret River
£15 - B(+)
Good expression of fruit, with vanilla / creamy characteristics form the oak treatment (a touch too much for my liking, its like they're trying too hard). Its a cool wine, body is structured, firm and rather wound-up, its not expressing itself that well yet; finish is unexpectedly quite classy and lengthy. The fruit is not at the fore yet, the oak is still overwhelming which is why I think it'll be a good candidate for aging, perhaps 5 yrs. I have a 1998 and 2001 vintage stored away, will post a tasting note when I decide to drink them.
Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay 2005, Adelaide Hills
£13 - B
I must admit I've never understood the various labels offered by Wolf Blass, theres just too many and it gets confusing to know whats what. This wine has a rather attractive nose thats almost sweet and honeyed, albeit rather alcoholic (I should've checked the abv, but in any case ita rather to get white wines displaying alcohol on the nose). Palate reveals good forward fruit, grapefruitish and some oak treatment; its pleasant enough but wholly forgettable.
Rosemount Show Reserve Shiraz 2002, McLaren Vale
£12 - B
Nose is very jammy, full of dark berries almost like cough mixture; the alcohol is apparent but the palate is not as big and punchy as it can be, there is a degree of reservedness about the wine. For Aussie Shiraz, the body of this wine is actually quite light; finish is not sustained enough though, its like a hit and run really. Again, nothing remarkable.
Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2002, Barossa Valley
£11 - B+(+)
Again, dark berries and jammy nose, with strong hints of licorice and smoke. Flavours here are developed with some secondary characters like mocha and cassis. The mouthfeel just seems slightly bigger and fuller than the Rosemount; the weight on the palate and sustained finish gives the wine a slight edge in terms of class and potential. I felt they got this one spot on (I've got a feeling it was a good year), flavours were generous without being dilute, it was forward without being punchy and intrusive. Liked it and I do think it may keep for a few more years just yet, 5 yrs or thereabouts. I wouldnt waste this on a barbie; a good accompaniment to heavy meat-based dish, specially with redcurrant sauce or something.
Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2004
£? - A-(+)
I dont know anything about Australian vintage charts but I've got a feeling this one, like the Kalimna above, was a good one. The fruit flavours are that of ripe berries, licorice and some smoke; its more elegant than the Kalimna, sort of the more mature and reserved of the two. There are more interesting secondary characters here with wood and light spices coming through; these normally only get reflected in the wine when the grapes ripen slowly and fully (hence a good, cool year). Taninns are more apparent and will definitely lend itself to aging; I feel there is more to be gained from this wine in due time, perhaps 7-10 years for this, peaking at 15 yrs.
Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
£12 - B+(+)
The palate didnt quite live up to the enticing nose. Nose displays nice alcoholic warmth; leather, wood and some tobacco notes. Palate was straightforward, it didnt have a weighty mouthfeel, too fleeting if anything. I cant find fault with this wine because it is well made, but theres nothing memorable either.
Wolf Blass Grey Label Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
£20 - A-(+)
Nose is dominated by eucalyptus and mint; its like cherry flavoured cough mixture. I'm told the Langhorne Creek which they use to irrigate the vines has eucalyptus trees growing on its banks, hence the nose. The only other time I've experienced this strong eucalyptus nose was when the vineyard was directly next to a eucalyptus forest; you almost half expect a koala to jump out of the bottle. Fruit is mainly blackcurrants and berries and winegums / pastilles. Body is structured, but could do with a litle more length; it is classy but it doesnt linger. I'm told 2003 was a bad year for Cab Sauv in Aussie. Even then, this might reward cellaring up to 10 yrs, it'll be interesting to see how the eucalyptus develops. I would've rated the wine similar to the Wynns above if not for the highly unusual and memorable nose.
Overall impressions
Credit should be given where credit is due; I was skeptical when I first saw the tasting list, I felt rather cheated. But it proved to be an interesting exercise in showing regional characteristics, short of actually saying terroir. Sure Australian wines are very reliable in providing drinkable bottles in the £5-£7 range, or even the 3 for £10 range; but some areas are finding their own niches. It is not a coincidence that I've had numerous quality Rieslings from Eden / Clare Valleys (thinking of Pewsey Vale and Petaluma, respectively; both available in Oddbins), as well as classy reds from Coonawarra. Wine of the night was the Penfolds Riesling and the Penfolds Bin 128; good value in my mind and lots of character; the Wolf Blass Langhorne Creek deserves a mention for the beautiful nose.
Saturday, 10 May 2008
Monday, 5 May 2008
General, 4 May 2008
Two wines with dinner and a fortified wine afterwards.
Magpie Estate 'The Thief' Mourvedre Grenache Rose 2006, Barossa Valley, AU
NYW - £8 [B+]
A rather deep coloured rose, made from unusual varietals. This off-dry rose displays plenty of fruity characteristics, with notes of cherries, raspberries and strawberries. Its not completely devoid of body, which is why it will go with light dishes (maybe chicken caesar salad). Its got slightly too much body for me to drink on its own, not to mention 14% alcohol.
Was had with: Prawn and salmon in parsley sauce with cheesy crust. Went alright with the food, but shouldve chosen a different wine.
Independent adjudicator rating: 8.5/10
Dona Dominga 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Oddbins - £10 [B+(+)]
A big, powerful new world wine. The nose reveals lots of attractive fruit, plenty of secondary flvours to savour. Palate is dominated by juicy blackcurrants and dark berries; there are touches of smokiness / toast, licorice and also of spices, specially cinnamon and perhaps nutmeg too. This wine really punches its way through your palate, and why not too at 14.5%. There is definitely some oak treatment, but I thought it was tastefully done; tannins should allow some maturing over 3-5 yrs, but its drinking beautifully now. I really liked it since there is so much flavours to savour, tasting this is like biting into a bunch of alcoholic berries. But it must be said that others might find it slightly too big, punchy and showy. Imagine having this for a barbecue, lovely.
Was had with: Roast beef, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and horseradish sauce. Classic beef and Cab Sauv combination really cant go wrong.
Independent adjudicator rating: 7/10
Burge Family Winemakers 'Vintage' Shiraz Touriga Souzao 2003, Barossa Valley, AU
NYW - £10 (37.5cl) [A-]
A fortified red wine, made with 40% Shiraz, 40% Touriga, 20% Souzao; the latter two are varietals commonly found in Port. This wine displayed lots of fruit, ripe blackcurrants and dark berries; I always feel that fortifying Shiraz always gives a slightly Ribena-like quality where the end product sort of tastes like fruit pastilles and wine gums. The mouthfeel is sweet, rather dense but not as heavy as vintage port; the lack of tannins probably makes this ideal for early drinking, perhaps even slightly chilled. I can certainly see it with fruit based deserts. A drawback I thought was that the alcohol level of 19.5% was very evident on the nose, wasnt disguised at all. Otherwise, a well-balanced and well made fortified wine.
Magpie Estate 'The Thief' Mourvedre Grenache Rose 2006, Barossa Valley, AU
NYW - £8 [B+]
A rather deep coloured rose, made from unusual varietals. This off-dry rose displays plenty of fruity characteristics, with notes of cherries, raspberries and strawberries. Its not completely devoid of body, which is why it will go with light dishes (maybe chicken caesar salad). Its got slightly too much body for me to drink on its own, not to mention 14% alcohol.
Was had with: Prawn and salmon in parsley sauce with cheesy crust. Went alright with the food, but shouldve chosen a different wine.
Independent adjudicator rating: 8.5/10
Dona Dominga 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Oddbins - £10 [B+(+)]
A big, powerful new world wine. The nose reveals lots of attractive fruit, plenty of secondary flvours to savour. Palate is dominated by juicy blackcurrants and dark berries; there are touches of smokiness / toast, licorice and also of spices, specially cinnamon and perhaps nutmeg too. This wine really punches its way through your palate, and why not too at 14.5%. There is definitely some oak treatment, but I thought it was tastefully done; tannins should allow some maturing over 3-5 yrs, but its drinking beautifully now. I really liked it since there is so much flavours to savour, tasting this is like biting into a bunch of alcoholic berries. But it must be said that others might find it slightly too big, punchy and showy. Imagine having this for a barbecue, lovely.
Was had with: Roast beef, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and horseradish sauce. Classic beef and Cab Sauv combination really cant go wrong.
Independent adjudicator rating: 7/10
Burge Family Winemakers 'Vintage' Shiraz Touriga Souzao 2003, Barossa Valley, AU
NYW - £10 (37.5cl) [A-]
A fortified red wine, made with 40% Shiraz, 40% Touriga, 20% Souzao; the latter two are varietals commonly found in Port. This wine displayed lots of fruit, ripe blackcurrants and dark berries; I always feel that fortifying Shiraz always gives a slightly Ribena-like quality where the end product sort of tastes like fruit pastilles and wine gums. The mouthfeel is sweet, rather dense but not as heavy as vintage port; the lack of tannins probably makes this ideal for early drinking, perhaps even slightly chilled. I can certainly see it with fruit based deserts. A drawback I thought was that the alcohol level of 19.5% was very evident on the nose, wasnt disguised at all. Otherwise, a well-balanced and well made fortified wine.
Saturday, 3 May 2008
General, 27 April 2008
Two wines had with dinner. This should be a weekly affair for the next six weeks.
Margrain 'Home Block' Pinot Noir 2006, Martinborough, NZ
Oddbins - £14 [A-(+)]
Absolutely lovely Pinot Noir; its got a delicate and silky texture that happily slips down with grace and moreish finish. There is a ripe cherry nose, like that of a berry coulis / compote (you know, the bit of fruit you get with a Muller Corner?) with some smokiness, like lightly smoked bacon, and woodiness too. Fruity but not overly so. The concentration of flavour is notable and although its quite alcoholic at 14%, it doesnt punch you out. Balance and juiciness is the key here. There isnt much tannin to speak of, but I feel this will develop in the bottle for at least another 5 yrs, maybe more. A bit pricey, but love it. Read the winemakers notes for this particular release here; and I thought I was abstract.
Was had with: Roast lamb (and mint sauce), roast potatoes and creamy cauliflower. Went very well, the wine complemented the lamb.
Independent adjudicator rating: 8/10
Nieto Senetiner 'Don Nicanor' Tardio 2004, Mendoza, Arg
NYW - £7.24 (50cl) [B]
A late harvest Torrontes, made by a reputable people, liked by the chaps at Noel Young. The palate was like candied oranges, sweet marmalade. There was a decent dose of sugar, nothing too cloying or heavy; but I thought the sweetness wasnt integrated with the acidity. When tasted, it felt sweet, rather sour then a slightly bittery (again, like marmalade) finish, in that order; it just didnt express itself as a single entity. For the price, one can't complain. Dont think there is any point in keeping this.
Was had with: A lemon tart with meringue and vanilla ice cream. Although I'm not thta keen on the wine on itself, it went very very well with the desert. The sweet ice cream and meringue found its match with the sweetness, the zingy acidity of the lemon tart found a partner with the acidity in the wine. The compartmentalisation of the flavours just made it better, paradoxically.
Independent adjudicator rating: 8.5/10
Margrain 'Home Block' Pinot Noir 2006, Martinborough, NZ
Oddbins - £14 [A-(+)]
Absolutely lovely Pinot Noir; its got a delicate and silky texture that happily slips down with grace and moreish finish. There is a ripe cherry nose, like that of a berry coulis / compote (you know, the bit of fruit you get with a Muller Corner?) with some smokiness, like lightly smoked bacon, and woodiness too. Fruity but not overly so. The concentration of flavour is notable and although its quite alcoholic at 14%, it doesnt punch you out. Balance and juiciness is the key here. There isnt much tannin to speak of, but I feel this will develop in the bottle for at least another 5 yrs, maybe more. A bit pricey, but love it. Read the winemakers notes for this particular release here; and I thought I was abstract.
Was had with: Roast lamb (and mint sauce), roast potatoes and creamy cauliflower. Went very well, the wine complemented the lamb.
Independent adjudicator rating: 8/10
Nieto Senetiner 'Don Nicanor' Tardio 2004, Mendoza, Arg
NYW - £7.24 (50cl) [B]
A late harvest Torrontes, made by a reputable people, liked by the chaps at Noel Young. The palate was like candied oranges, sweet marmalade. There was a decent dose of sugar, nothing too cloying or heavy; but I thought the sweetness wasnt integrated with the acidity. When tasted, it felt sweet, rather sour then a slightly bittery (again, like marmalade) finish, in that order; it just didnt express itself as a single entity. For the price, one can't complain. Dont think there is any point in keeping this.
Was had with: A lemon tart with meringue and vanilla ice cream. Although I'm not thta keen on the wine on itself, it went very very well with the desert. The sweet ice cream and meringue found its match with the sweetness, the zingy acidity of the lemon tart found a partner with the acidity in the wine. The compartmentalisation of the flavours just made it better, paradoxically.
Independent adjudicator rating: 8.5/10
Friday, 25 April 2008
NYW - Jean-Claude Boisset Tasting
Jean-Claude Boisset Tasting
Noel Young Wines - Trumpington
16 April 2008
Tasting run by Noel Young Wines in Trumpington HIgh St, Cambridge. Its the first time I've been to a tasting in NY Wines, its not exactly smack in the middle of Cambridge you see, getting there and back is rather complicated. However, this tasting was really excellent, I ran out of superlatives at the end of it. Prices are retail at NYW.
The speaker, Gregory Patriat, is the head winemaker at JC Boisset; a man who knows and obviously loves his wine, is an excellent and captivating speaker (with jokes I really shouldnt repeat in a public domain such as this). He started off working in the vineyards, gradually moving up to become winemaker. JC Boisset used to be thought of as a run of the mill kind of winery, making basic and overpriced Burgundies; but this has changed under Gregory. They now make small parcels of many different wines, focusing on the true and pure expression of the terroir; they dont own much land themselves, instead choosing to buy in parcels of fruit from all over Burgundy. They are very involved in the actual grape growing (they are foremost a wine grower, not a wine maker - nice soundbite eh?). This is rather important as wine growers tend to have a farmers' mentality, that is, trying to make as much fruit as possible as they get paid by the tonne; this unfortunately makes poor wine as the fruit will be flavourless, diluted, and very often under ripe - farmers get real twitchy at the sight of bad weather near harvest time, so left to their own devices, they would rather harvest early and secure the crop. By forging long term relationships with the wine growers, JC Boisset has the pick of the crop and they say in the actual wine growing; in many ways this is a good business model. If its a bad year, they simply make less wine and only buy fruit from areas which performed OK; in good years, they just buy more fruit and make more wine. Hence they have a massive portfolio of different wines produced in very small quantities, ranging from 600 to 10,000 bottles, which is nothing compared to the massive negociants in Burgundy. Enough background, on to the drink itself.
Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006
£11 [B+]
The entry level white from JC Boisset, they tend to think that the entry level wine is where most of the big negociants get it wrong: its normally overpriced and/or rubbish. Here, we have a fruit-driven wine, full of white fruits, peaches and citrus peel; its very fresh, with crisp minerality and light acidity. There is some tartness towards the end, lending to a balanced, perfectly acceptable mouthfeel. I felt that this was a good wine to start a tasting, awakens the tastebuds with its light, tingly flavours. Its not one to keep, but a few years wont hurt it at all. I think its wonderful if you just wanted to show what a properly made white Burgundy should taste like. Value isnt bad either.
Marsannay Blanc 2006
£16 [A-]
From vineyards just north of the Cotes de Nuits. This was sort of the entry level, taken to the next step. The purity of flavour and fruit-dominated palate is similar to above, but this wine had a slightly heavier mouthfeel; it was more expansive, just slightly more fulfilling. Whereas the first wine above was light and tingly, this was more assured and lingered for a while, enticing you a bit. I loved the balance and togetherness of the wine. This may keep around 5yrs if you could keep it that long.
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Gamay 2006
£25 [A-(+)]
Despite the name, this wine is all Chardonnay, from an up and coming area (Saint-Aubin); the 2002 vintage won an IWC white burgundy trophy some time back, The main distinguishing feature from the two above is the weight on the palate, this one feels creamier, heavier, larger and fatter. A slight departure from white fruits, into more developed complex notes. There are more attarctive secondary characteristics, here I detected some organic chemistry-related notes (turpentine etc); the wine itself doesnt slip through quickly, it almost beckons you to stop and take notice. This will most certainly develop in the next 5-10yrs. Absolutely lovely, balanced and complex.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2005
£45 [B+(++)]
The most expensive white on tasting tonight, but not my favourite. There is an overriding acidity that will supply the backbone for aging, but now, its just a bit too aggressive and cutting; its also almost tannic (yes, I know it sounds weird). Dont get me wrong, its still wonderful, there is a creamier, buttery and largeness about it that I just know will be perfect in due course. Fruit wise, we're moving from citrus to grapefruit and lime. At the moment, its a bit too exuberant and lively for me, its not yet 'together' flavour wise; the different aspects (acidity, fruit, weight and motuhfeel) are still pulling the wine in different directions. I have no doubts thil will develop very well with time; its not short on class either. Keep 10+ yrs.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006
£11 [B+]
Entry level red from JC Boisset, made much in the same spirit as the white. Its an honest Burgundy, made properly from decent grapes. Its dominated by light red fruits; tartness reminiscent of cranberry and raspberry. Tannins are a bit out of place for my liking, I like my Pinots to be smooth and rounded, this one had some edge to it. Its a vibrant and happy wine, to be had with food (pork or even lamb). Drink now, no dont think it'll keep.
Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 'Les Dames Huguettes' 2006
£15 [B(+)]
This I thought didnt express itself well during the tasting; it may be on a bad day. It seemed rather closed and astringent, which I thought was strange. There is some red fruits though, but the tannins just needed some time to soften and develop. My rating reflects the hope that it will get better with time, perhaps 5yrs just to open a little?
Santenay 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau 2006
£25 [B+(+)]
The appearance of this wine was lightly darker than the prvious two, an indication as to its flavours as well. There is certainly greater concentration of flovaours in this wine, red fruits still readily apparent with a sprinkling of secondary caharcteristics of wood / herb. The mouthfeel was slightly heavier and larger and the finish just that bit classier. It should keep, the tannins could do with some time 5-10yrs.
Beaune 1er Cru Les Greves 2005
£28 [B(+++)]
Another potentially great wine which didnt perform during the tasting. My lasting memory of this was how tightly wound this wine tasted, the tannins were astringent almost to the extent of being raw, grips like tyres on a hot tarmac. The shame is that there are great secondary flavours here: light spices, licorice and floral nose were all there, the fruit was hidden behind the tannins. I'm told by the winemaker that this wine has a tendency to enter a 'closed' phase where it just shuts down for a few years and he wasnt surprised that this wine tasted like it did. Time should take care of it though. I'm sure this tasting note would look different in 5yrs time; maturity and full complexity wont be till 12-15yrs time. Once won the IWC Burgundy trophy, cant doubt the pedigree.
Chambolie Musigny 2005
£32 [B+(++)]
This was a really serious wine, from the first sip you could tell it meant business. The concentration of flavours, even at this stage, was impressive; the nose was strong yet delicately perfumed. Taninns are present but not harsh; there was a hidden power behind this wine that you could feel will serve it very well in due course. There is a layered, structured feel that is so seductive; the savouriness is just brilliant. I apologise for being so abstract, but I absolutely adored this wine even now; I shudder to think what greatness could be expected in, say, 10yrs time; maturity probably after 15yrs.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2005
£67 [A-(++)]
Alright, this cost twice as much as the previous one but I honestly cannot say it was twice as good. The good points from the wine above are obviously here, I couldnt detect much difference bar the fact that this wine was drinking better now, compared to the Chambolie Musigny, hence the grade difference. Whats notable is the layered palate; the hidden power and structure is appealing; the finish is slightly more sustained. Maybe 5-10yrs to start tatsing interesting bits; 15yrs for maturity. Honestly though, I'd rather get two bottles of Chambolie Musigny.
Overall
Incredibly impressed with the JC Boisset portfolio. All wines showed pedigree, they didnt muck about with the grapes; there was no excessive oak treatment, whatever oak they used was tasteful and elegant. The clarity anf purity of expression of the terroir is absolutely first class. I honestly cannot say anything bad about the wines here. Notable white was the Saint-Aubin, as probably guessed from the notes, for its balance and expression. Notable reds were the Bourgogne Pinot Noir, for its value; the Chambolie Musigny for its elegance and potential.
Noel Young Wines - Trumpington
16 April 2008
Tasting run by Noel Young Wines in Trumpington HIgh St, Cambridge. Its the first time I've been to a tasting in NY Wines, its not exactly smack in the middle of Cambridge you see, getting there and back is rather complicated. However, this tasting was really excellent, I ran out of superlatives at the end of it. Prices are retail at NYW.
The speaker, Gregory Patriat, is the head winemaker at JC Boisset; a man who knows and obviously loves his wine, is an excellent and captivating speaker (with jokes I really shouldnt repeat in a public domain such as this). He started off working in the vineyards, gradually moving up to become winemaker. JC Boisset used to be thought of as a run of the mill kind of winery, making basic and overpriced Burgundies; but this has changed under Gregory. They now make small parcels of many different wines, focusing on the true and pure expression of the terroir; they dont own much land themselves, instead choosing to buy in parcels of fruit from all over Burgundy. They are very involved in the actual grape growing (they are foremost a wine grower, not a wine maker - nice soundbite eh?). This is rather important as wine growers tend to have a farmers' mentality, that is, trying to make as much fruit as possible as they get paid by the tonne; this unfortunately makes poor wine as the fruit will be flavourless, diluted, and very often under ripe - farmers get real twitchy at the sight of bad weather near harvest time, so left to their own devices, they would rather harvest early and secure the crop. By forging long term relationships with the wine growers, JC Boisset has the pick of the crop and they say in the actual wine growing; in many ways this is a good business model. If its a bad year, they simply make less wine and only buy fruit from areas which performed OK; in good years, they just buy more fruit and make more wine. Hence they have a massive portfolio of different wines produced in very small quantities, ranging from 600 to 10,000 bottles, which is nothing compared to the massive negociants in Burgundy. Enough background, on to the drink itself.
Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006
£11 [B+]
The entry level white from JC Boisset, they tend to think that the entry level wine is where most of the big negociants get it wrong: its normally overpriced and/or rubbish. Here, we have a fruit-driven wine, full of white fruits, peaches and citrus peel; its very fresh, with crisp minerality and light acidity. There is some tartness towards the end, lending to a balanced, perfectly acceptable mouthfeel. I felt that this was a good wine to start a tasting, awakens the tastebuds with its light, tingly flavours. Its not one to keep, but a few years wont hurt it at all. I think its wonderful if you just wanted to show what a properly made white Burgundy should taste like. Value isnt bad either.
Marsannay Blanc 2006
£16 [A-]
From vineyards just north of the Cotes de Nuits. This was sort of the entry level, taken to the next step. The purity of flavour and fruit-dominated palate is similar to above, but this wine had a slightly heavier mouthfeel; it was more expansive, just slightly more fulfilling. Whereas the first wine above was light and tingly, this was more assured and lingered for a while, enticing you a bit. I loved the balance and togetherness of the wine. This may keep around 5yrs if you could keep it that long.
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Gamay 2006
£25 [A-(+)]
Despite the name, this wine is all Chardonnay, from an up and coming area (Saint-Aubin); the 2002 vintage won an IWC white burgundy trophy some time back, The main distinguishing feature from the two above is the weight on the palate, this one feels creamier, heavier, larger and fatter. A slight departure from white fruits, into more developed complex notes. There are more attarctive secondary characteristics, here I detected some organic chemistry-related notes (turpentine etc); the wine itself doesnt slip through quickly, it almost beckons you to stop and take notice. This will most certainly develop in the next 5-10yrs. Absolutely lovely, balanced and complex.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2005
£45 [B+(++)]
The most expensive white on tasting tonight, but not my favourite. There is an overriding acidity that will supply the backbone for aging, but now, its just a bit too aggressive and cutting; its also almost tannic (yes, I know it sounds weird). Dont get me wrong, its still wonderful, there is a creamier, buttery and largeness about it that I just know will be perfect in due course. Fruit wise, we're moving from citrus to grapefruit and lime. At the moment, its a bit too exuberant and lively for me, its not yet 'together' flavour wise; the different aspects (acidity, fruit, weight and motuhfeel) are still pulling the wine in different directions. I have no doubts thil will develop very well with time; its not short on class either. Keep 10+ yrs.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006
£11 [B+]
Entry level red from JC Boisset, made much in the same spirit as the white. Its an honest Burgundy, made properly from decent grapes. Its dominated by light red fruits; tartness reminiscent of cranberry and raspberry. Tannins are a bit out of place for my liking, I like my Pinots to be smooth and rounded, this one had some edge to it. Its a vibrant and happy wine, to be had with food (pork or even lamb). Drink now, no dont think it'll keep.
Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 'Les Dames Huguettes' 2006
£15 [B(+)]
This I thought didnt express itself well during the tasting; it may be on a bad day. It seemed rather closed and astringent, which I thought was strange. There is some red fruits though, but the tannins just needed some time to soften and develop. My rating reflects the hope that it will get better with time, perhaps 5yrs just to open a little?
Santenay 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau 2006
£25 [B+(+)]
The appearance of this wine was lightly darker than the prvious two, an indication as to its flavours as well. There is certainly greater concentration of flovaours in this wine, red fruits still readily apparent with a sprinkling of secondary caharcteristics of wood / herb. The mouthfeel was slightly heavier and larger and the finish just that bit classier. It should keep, the tannins could do with some time 5-10yrs.
Beaune 1er Cru Les Greves 2005
£28 [B(+++)]
Another potentially great wine which didnt perform during the tasting. My lasting memory of this was how tightly wound this wine tasted, the tannins were astringent almost to the extent of being raw, grips like tyres on a hot tarmac. The shame is that there are great secondary flavours here: light spices, licorice and floral nose were all there, the fruit was hidden behind the tannins. I'm told by the winemaker that this wine has a tendency to enter a 'closed' phase where it just shuts down for a few years and he wasnt surprised that this wine tasted like it did. Time should take care of it though. I'm sure this tasting note would look different in 5yrs time; maturity and full complexity wont be till 12-15yrs time. Once won the IWC Burgundy trophy, cant doubt the pedigree.
Chambolie Musigny 2005
£32 [B+(++)]
This was a really serious wine, from the first sip you could tell it meant business. The concentration of flavours, even at this stage, was impressive; the nose was strong yet delicately perfumed. Taninns are present but not harsh; there was a hidden power behind this wine that you could feel will serve it very well in due course. There is a layered, structured feel that is so seductive; the savouriness is just brilliant. I apologise for being so abstract, but I absolutely adored this wine even now; I shudder to think what greatness could be expected in, say, 10yrs time; maturity probably after 15yrs.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2005
£67 [A-(++)]
Alright, this cost twice as much as the previous one but I honestly cannot say it was twice as good. The good points from the wine above are obviously here, I couldnt detect much difference bar the fact that this wine was drinking better now, compared to the Chambolie Musigny, hence the grade difference. Whats notable is the layered palate; the hidden power and structure is appealing; the finish is slightly more sustained. Maybe 5-10yrs to start tatsing interesting bits; 15yrs for maturity. Honestly though, I'd rather get two bottles of Chambolie Musigny.
Overall
Incredibly impressed with the JC Boisset portfolio. All wines showed pedigree, they didnt muck about with the grapes; there was no excessive oak treatment, whatever oak they used was tasteful and elegant. The clarity anf purity of expression of the terroir is absolutely first class. I honestly cannot say anything bad about the wines here. Notable white was the Saint-Aubin, as probably guessed from the notes, for its balance and expression. Notable reds were the Bourgogne Pinot Noir, for its value; the Chambolie Musigny for its elegance and potential.
Thursday, 24 April 2008
The grading system explained
This entry just tells you more about my ranking system thats normally indicated next to the price of the wine. Of course one cannot be completely objective about what 'grade' a particular wine gets, but you can sort of try. I am fully aware of the perils of giving grades, particularly if the grade / point given can make or break a wine (cue Robert Parker). To me, the grading system is a guide - should I have the opportunity to buy some of these wines, I know where to look for a quick glance and thats how I suppose you ought to treat it. I must also admit that this grading system is adapted from Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Guide.
Firstly, there is an actual grade as to how the wine performed during the tasting. I try my best to take price out of the equation, but this is often not possible. Alternatively, if I thought a wine was of particularly good or poor value, this should be in the actual tasting note. The grade ranges from A+ to C-, I dont think I have ever rated a wine C-, though some have come close. They correspond roughly to:
A* : Buy a few cases, at least. Now.
A+ : A case in the cellar will make me a happy man.
A : Definitely re-buy a bottle, at least.
A- : I'd happily drink most of a bottle.
B+ : I'd drink a few glasses.
B : I'd drink a glass.
B- : Probably wont finish whats in my glass.
C+ : Half a glass is plenty, thanks.
C : I'd finish the tasting pour only to be polite.
C- : Wheres the spittoon again?
If I ever find the occasion to award lower than a C- (lets hope not), then I will say so in the tasting note, probably followed by a string of expletives too. In addition, there are ratings next to the grade to indicate aging potential as I am aware many wines tasted are not at their peak and would benefit from bottle aging. This will be written in brackets; the extent to which the wines will develop is indicated by the number of +s. So a wine with [A-(++)] may one day, at its peak, be [A+]; this will be a thing to look for especially in Bordeaux tastings.
So thats that, my grading system explained.
Addendum Nov 2011
For en primeur tastings, a 20-point scale is used, with the number of (+) an indication as to how it might develop. This would roughly translate as:
A* 20pts
A+ 19-19.5pts
A 18-18.5pts
A- 17-17.5pts
B+ 16-16.5pts
B 15-15.5pts
B- 14-14.5pts
Firstly, there is an actual grade as to how the wine performed during the tasting. I try my best to take price out of the equation, but this is often not possible. Alternatively, if I thought a wine was of particularly good or poor value, this should be in the actual tasting note. The grade ranges from A+ to C-, I dont think I have ever rated a wine C-, though some have come close. They correspond roughly to:
A* : Buy a few cases, at least. Now.
A+ : A case in the cellar will make me a happy man.
A : Definitely re-buy a bottle, at least.
A- : I'd happily drink most of a bottle.
B+ : I'd drink a few glasses.
B : I'd drink a glass.
B- : Probably wont finish whats in my glass.
C+ : Half a glass is plenty, thanks.
C : I'd finish the tasting pour only to be polite.
C- : Wheres the spittoon again?
If I ever find the occasion to award lower than a C- (lets hope not), then I will say so in the tasting note, probably followed by a string of expletives too. In addition, there are ratings next to the grade to indicate aging potential as I am aware many wines tasted are not at their peak and would benefit from bottle aging. This will be written in brackets; the extent to which the wines will develop is indicated by the number of +s. So a wine with [A-(++)] may one day, at its peak, be [A+]; this will be a thing to look for especially in Bordeaux tastings.
So thats that, my grading system explained.
Addendum Nov 2011
For en primeur tastings, a 20-point scale is used, with the number of (+) an indication as to how it might develop. This would roughly translate as:
A* 20pts
A+ 19-19.5pts
A 18-18.5pts
A- 17-17.5pts
B+ 16-16.5pts
B 15-15.5pts
B- 14-14.5pts
General - 16-23 April 2008
Various wines that were tasted during this week, all with food.
Cliff Edge Shiraz 2001, Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards, Australia
CWM - £14 [B+]
Its quite rare to be able to taste a big aussie shiraz thats been aged abit, I must admit, this was why I bought it. This wine was no pushover, I think the alcohol level was upwards of 14%, but somehow you didnt feel the burn as much as usual. There is a fantastic fruitiness to it, the nose reminds me of blackcurrant cordial / ribena / berry pastilles, there is a mintiness perhaps eucalyptus nose as well. It really was a big wine, voluptuous even, but it didnt have the same kind of kick compared to a young aussie shiraz; its lost the punchiness to it and gained a smoother texture too. I actually like it very much (not for everyday drinking, mind) and it went really well with spaghetti and italian sausages.
Jean-Claude Boisset Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006, France
NYW - £11 [B+]
This is the entry level red bourgogne by JC Boisset; a full tasting note from a Boisset tasting will be uploaded shortly, I bought this wine on its own for dinner. This wine displayed much forward fruit, ripe cherries and raspberries dominate; there is some tartness as well, like drinking cranberry juice. The tannins are enough to support the body. I was impressed by the purity of expression; its not some Grand Cru stuff, but you feel that this wine was well made, they didnt muck about with too much oak etc. Its a vibrant, happy wine really; and great value for what is a decent Bourgogne to drink now. I had it with a roast belly of pork in a white wine and garlic reduction sauce and it was lovely; the fattiness of the pork didnt overcome the wine at all. Drink early though, this entry level wine is not for keeping.
Finca Antigua Merlot 2004, Martinez Bujanda, La Mancha, Spain
Restaurant price £16, Retail unknown [B]
Ordered this wine for a curry dinner at the famed Shish Mahal Restaurant in Glasgow's West End; they recommneded it, and apparently this wine won a medal at the IWC 2005? The wine itself is everything one would expect of a pure Merlot; large, round and juicy fruit; the nose is deep with cassis and red fruits. There is a woodiness and smokiness to it, I would imagine this had some new oak treatment, but cant be sure. Often one finds such pure Merlot (esp New World) to be quite dilute where the flavours are not concentrated, this wine didnt suffer from this problem; the soft tannins are ripe and if you try hard enough, there is even some secondary chracteristics with spices etc. Overall, this wine complemented the curry dinner nicely, if sometimes slightly overwhelmed. Cant complain.
Magpie Estate 'The Salvation' Gewurztraminer 2007, Barossa/Eden Valley, Australia
NYW - £9 [A-]
Made by the good people at Noel Young Wines, this is only the second white wine they have made in 10 years and I feel they got it spot on. The floral, slightly perfumed nose is enticing; the palate is full of white fruits, citrus, pineapple, some candied ginger and even the elusive lychee. There is still some sweetness (to an Auslese level?), but this is balanced by the fruity acidity that runs through, leaving a clean, lip-smacking finish. I think its wonderfully balanced and shows good expression of a Gewurztraminer. I dont know whether this will evolve in bottle, it might just gain a bit more weight and lose some of the freshnes of youth, but its wonderful now, honestly. I had it wine some simple sweet and sour pork; the spiciness/sweetness of the dish was complemented very well by the wine. Very impressed and will definitely consider buying again.
Cliff Edge Shiraz 2001, Mount Langi Ghiran Vineyards, Australia
CWM - £14 [B+]
Its quite rare to be able to taste a big aussie shiraz thats been aged abit, I must admit, this was why I bought it. This wine was no pushover, I think the alcohol level was upwards of 14%, but somehow you didnt feel the burn as much as usual. There is a fantastic fruitiness to it, the nose reminds me of blackcurrant cordial / ribena / berry pastilles, there is a mintiness perhaps eucalyptus nose as well. It really was a big wine, voluptuous even, but it didnt have the same kind of kick compared to a young aussie shiraz; its lost the punchiness to it and gained a smoother texture too. I actually like it very much (not for everyday drinking, mind) and it went really well with spaghetti and italian sausages.
Jean-Claude Boisset Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006, France
NYW - £11 [B+]
This is the entry level red bourgogne by JC Boisset; a full tasting note from a Boisset tasting will be uploaded shortly, I bought this wine on its own for dinner. This wine displayed much forward fruit, ripe cherries and raspberries dominate; there is some tartness as well, like drinking cranberry juice. The tannins are enough to support the body. I was impressed by the purity of expression; its not some Grand Cru stuff, but you feel that this wine was well made, they didnt muck about with too much oak etc. Its a vibrant, happy wine really; and great value for what is a decent Bourgogne to drink now. I had it with a roast belly of pork in a white wine and garlic reduction sauce and it was lovely; the fattiness of the pork didnt overcome the wine at all. Drink early though, this entry level wine is not for keeping.
Finca Antigua Merlot 2004, Martinez Bujanda, La Mancha, Spain
Restaurant price £16, Retail unknown [B]
Ordered this wine for a curry dinner at the famed Shish Mahal Restaurant in Glasgow's West End; they recommneded it, and apparently this wine won a medal at the IWC 2005? The wine itself is everything one would expect of a pure Merlot; large, round and juicy fruit; the nose is deep with cassis and red fruits. There is a woodiness and smokiness to it, I would imagine this had some new oak treatment, but cant be sure. Often one finds such pure Merlot (esp New World) to be quite dilute where the flavours are not concentrated, this wine didnt suffer from this problem; the soft tannins are ripe and if you try hard enough, there is even some secondary chracteristics with spices etc. Overall, this wine complemented the curry dinner nicely, if sometimes slightly overwhelmed. Cant complain.
Magpie Estate 'The Salvation' Gewurztraminer 2007, Barossa/Eden Valley, Australia
NYW - £9 [A-]
Made by the good people at Noel Young Wines, this is only the second white wine they have made in 10 years and I feel they got it spot on. The floral, slightly perfumed nose is enticing; the palate is full of white fruits, citrus, pineapple, some candied ginger and even the elusive lychee. There is still some sweetness (to an Auslese level?), but this is balanced by the fruity acidity that runs through, leaving a clean, lip-smacking finish. I think its wonderfully balanced and shows good expression of a Gewurztraminer. I dont know whether this will evolve in bottle, it might just gain a bit more weight and lose some of the freshnes of youth, but its wonderful now, honestly. I had it wine some simple sweet and sour pork; the spiciness/sweetness of the dish was complemented very well by the wine. Very impressed and will definitely consider buying again.
Sunday, 13 April 2008
General, 12 April 2008
Ch Cru Cantemerle 2003, Bordeaux Superieur
Oddbins £8.5 [B]
This Merlot dominated wine (88%) showed excellent fruit-driven characteristics and juiciness, undoubtedly due to its high Merlot content. The palate is dominated by fresh light fruits and a hint of toast/woodiness; the palate is firm, welcoming and plump, if perhaps a touch dilute (I imagine its something to do with the ripenes of the grapes when picked, but that could be complete bollocks). Its a decent drink and reasonably priced if bought in bulk, what with Oddbins' 20% off any dozen offer - £8.50 is the retail price, without the offer. The tannins are present, and I think they are as refined now as they are ever going to be, this wine is not a Bordeaux you buy to keep and enjoy ten years down the road. Have it with your sunday roast, or any meat-dominated dish.
A note of interest: Ch Cru Cantemerle actually neighbours Ch Cantemerle, a fifth growth classified winery in Haut-Medoc, which often makes people think that this wine is the second wine of Cantemerle. Its not, the second wine of Ch Cantemerle is Les Allees de Cantemerle. Just thought I;d make that clear.
Oddbins £8.5 [B]
This Merlot dominated wine (88%) showed excellent fruit-driven characteristics and juiciness, undoubtedly due to its high Merlot content. The palate is dominated by fresh light fruits and a hint of toast/woodiness; the palate is firm, welcoming and plump, if perhaps a touch dilute (I imagine its something to do with the ripenes of the grapes when picked, but that could be complete bollocks). Its a decent drink and reasonably priced if bought in bulk, what with Oddbins' 20% off any dozen offer - £8.50 is the retail price, without the offer. The tannins are present, and I think they are as refined now as they are ever going to be, this wine is not a Bordeaux you buy to keep and enjoy ten years down the road. Have it with your sunday roast, or any meat-dominated dish.
A note of interest: Ch Cru Cantemerle actually neighbours Ch Cantemerle, a fifth growth classified winery in Haut-Medoc, which often makes people think that this wine is the second wine of Cantemerle. Its not, the second wine of Ch Cantemerle is Les Allees de Cantemerle. Just thought I;d make that clear.
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