An impressively easy-drinking Sancerre, clean expression of muted fruit with a nice creamy elegance. The terroir really shows in this wine, with chalk, slate and flinty notes showing through. I suspect there is some oak treatment, but it wasn’t overpowering, if anything, it added a slight fatness to the wine giving it more weight on the palate. There is still some citrus fruits coming through along with the associated tartness. Overall, a well-balanced wine that is drinking brilliantly now.
Was had with: Warm goats cheese salad. Not the best pairing, I thought the wine would have been better on its own.
Domaine de Remizieres Crozes Hermitage 2004
~£8 | B | Individual Wines
A basic wine that shows some notes of red fruits; tannins has mellowed out substantially. Unfortunately, nothing remarkable or memorable; wine was disappointing overall.
A small selection of ports from the Symington Family stable, which includes marquee names such as Graham’s, Dow’s and Warre’s and the smaller houses of Quinta do Vesuvio, Smith Woodhouse, Gould Campbell and Quarles Harris. Tasting was led by Mr Tim Stanley-Clarke, a representative from the Symingtons. Prices indicated are approximate retail prices. First three ports are case matured; the rest, bottle matured and decanted prior to serving.
Warre’s Warrior Special Reserve £7 | B
Nice fruit flavours, with sweetness and smoothness to the fore. Nose isn’t complex, just fresh bouquet. The relatively soft mouthfeel makes this a dangerously drinkable, easygoing everyday port – a definite step up from your standard ruby.
Dow’s LBV 2001. £9 | B+
Bottled 2007. Nose slightly more complex, touches of sweet spices and pepper. Mouthfeel is medium-bodied, flavours reminiscent of the spices in mince pies; sweet and not overpowering. Theres a touch of dryness at the finish, a rather ‘masculine’ port, according to some.
Warre’s Otima Ten Year Old Tawny £11 | A-
Fresh, rather lifted port; not heavy and bogged down. Palate shows some integrated nutty flavours; balance is everything in this tawny, superbly composed. The fruitiness almost tingles on the palate, delicious when chilled. Again, very very drinkable.
Graham’s Crusted Port. £15 | B+(+)
Bottled 2001. Both nose and palate seems like a step up from the case-matured ports above. The flavours are deeper, more complex. Expected port flavours of dark berries, spices and licorice are all there. Tannins still grips quite a bit, not quite refined yet; could do with a few more years to fleshen out. Drinks well now, but will be showing best between 2012-2015.
Warre’s Bottle Matured LBV 1999. £17 | B(++)
Bottled 2003. Rich, spiced nose that’s incredibly attractive; theres hints of menthol / eucalyptus (like coughdrops) hiding behind the red fruits. The palate is quite light, apparently a virtue of the Warre’s house style; which makes the lively tannins seem out of place. I suspect that this port has greater potential than was tasted; worth a look at a later date. Drink now-2020.
Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port 1998. £25 | A-(+)
Bottled 2000. Deep, concentrated flavours, as expected of Vintage Port. The nose is elegant even seductive, doesn’t jump out at you; one might even call it elusive. Red fruits and spiciness has married rather well, giving a very balanced and structured port. Tannins are softening out, allowing enjoyable drinking now, albeit slightly gripping. 1998 was not considered to be an outstanding vintage for Dow’s, probably even limiting its aging potential; this port will show its best roundabout 2015-2020, with further enjoyment till mid 2020s.
Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 1983. £50 | A
Bottled 1985. Fully matured port, with highly developed characteristics. Nose gives an impressionable nutty and toasted tinge, along with coughdrops and an almost floral note. On the palate, its incredibly silky smooth, tannins has softened out completely, leaving the port with a more tawny complexion. The weight of mouthfeel is very well distributed, giving a satisfyingly long finish. Showed superbly in the tasting, and undoubtedly ready for drinking. Brilliant; drink now.
A general wine tasting, prices indicated are approximate retail prices.
Vinas Las Ninas Chardonnay 2006
£5 | B
Clean, pale, basic Chardonnay. White fruits, with fresh acidity but not too racy. A good palate cleanser, nothing remarkable.
BestheimGewurztraminer2006, Alsace.
£7 | B+
Lifted floral nose (white lilies, elderflower and the like), perhaps a touch of honeysuckle; energetic aromas. Balanced wine, acidity is masked by the freshness. Hints of kerosene like that of an oily mackerel. Well made, to be drunk now.
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007
£5 | B+
Standard, reliable drink. Nose is vibrant and lively. Lots of fruit jumping around on the palate; herbaceous, grassy, gooseberry notes are evident. Ticks all the right boxes for a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. At this price point, its good value too. No technical faults, but common and unremarkable wine otherwise.
Cono Sur Reserve Pinot Noir 2007
£6|B+
Soft, seductive notes of light red fruits (raspberry, light cherry). Palate is balanced and ready to please. Its like a well made, ready to drink Burgundy - less the complexity and class, but a lot less price too. Very drinkable.
Chateau Beaumont 2003. Haut Medoc Cru Bourgeois Superieur.
£12 | A-
Large property in Haut Medoc, making good reliable claret; 2003 generally regarded as a good to v. good year. Attractive nose of classic claret; damp earth / musty characters. Dark fruits still there and tannins have mostly fleshed out, though several more years won’t be amiss. Well made and ready to drink claret (3-5yrs max).
Bodegas Arrocal 2006. Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero.
£8 | B+(+)
Lots of dark fruits, typical of Tempranillo; blue/blackberry notes, with some sweetness and smokiness, Tannin is there but does not overwhelm the wine; very much a food wine. Well balanced and would keep for several more years (5+ years).
Clos Baudoin 1990. Vouvray.
£20 | A-(+)
Apparently owned by a Polish Prince that is not quite interested in making or even selling wines; actual vineyard now run by locals. Nose of honeyed white fruits (peach, apricot); fantastic uplifted floral notes. Residual sugar is relatively high, but still refreshing and not cloying. Wine is matured and v. classy, acids has softened out. This wine is delightful now; age could add more complexity (anything up to 10 yrs). Excellent stuff, though not quite in the same league as top Vouvrays.
Lindeman’s botrytis Riesling 1994.
£5 | B+
Thick, treacle-like caramel; hints of eucalyptus/menthol, cough syrup. Plenty of acid to go around, fresh and will go well with fruit-based desserts. Different character to a TBA.
Devils Lair Chardonnay 2001, Margaret River, Australia Noel Young - £12.50 (bin end sale) A-
A settled New World Chardonnay. Last week, we tasted the 1998 vintage and although I enjoyed it, some of my dinner companions thought it to be too musty/tired for their liking. This Chardonnay still displayed a nice vibrancy to it; there is still remnants of fruit characters here, but its not the fresh, aggressive citrus-driven flavours but has developed into a sweeter, fuller palate like that of pineapples, as opposed to citrus/lime. The oak treatment and acidity, along with the aging makes this wine feel more like a rather young white burgundy/chablis, it has more of an old-world feel than a new-world one. I thought the balance and structure was spot on; caught at an interesting time in its development where the fruit hasnt all disappeared yet, whilst still developing the creamy, more textured feel that comes with age. Wonderful really and good value too.
Independent adjudicator: 7/10 Was had with: Potted shrimps with lime mayonnaise. Went well with the food too. The lime mayonnaise really cried out for a substantial white wine and this one delivered.
Ch. Ramage La Batisse 2000, Cru Bourgeois Haut Medoc, France Noel Young - £35 (Magnum) B+(+)
First time I've brought a Magnum to dinner; it sure is impressive when placed on a table, shows everyone else that you mean business. Was bought because it was one of a few Magnums that could be found retail at short notice. Vintage is widely regarded as excellent, so no worries there. Again I felt that this wine was caught at an interesting point in its evolution; the fruitiness was still there, displaying plump red fruits, blackcurrants and plums. Towards the back of the palate, this wine begins to display its age and slightly more evolved characters, with hints of wood and cedar coming through. I think its could easily be laid down for another five years at least or even longer should you like your Bordeaux to be settled and mellow.
Independent adjudicator: 7/10 Was had with: Beef olives, new potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Beef and Bordeaux can't really go wrong. The gravy with the beef was somewhat tomato-driven, which is never easy to pair with wines.
Fairview La Beryl Blanc 2007, South Africa Noel Young - £10 (50cl) B+
Made from a blend of Semillon and Chenin Blanc that has been air-dried to lose its moisture, leading to a naturally sweet, unfortified wine. It displays lovely notes of sweet apricots/nectarines, floral honey and even pineapples; it really reminded me of one of those fruit juice blends you buy in M&S. Sweetness isn't cloying, and acidity provides nice balance. I dont see why it wont age, but nothing too long, perhaps 5-10yrs. My only criticism of this perhaps would be that the flavours aren't integrated/together, which I tend to find in New World sweets. This desert wine doesnt feel as intence or concentrated as say a classed Sauternes would, so I think its suited to light, summery puddings, perhaps an apricot crumble with custard? Good value too.
Independent adjudictor: 8/10 Was had with: Raspberry trifle. Not the ideal pairing, but it still went acceptably well. I drank most of mine on its own, after having finished the desert itself; did more justice to the wine.
Old Redemption Exceptionally Old Tawny NV, Barossa Valley, Australia Noel Young - £15 (50cl) A
Made by the boutique winemaker David Franz from parcels of his families' vineyards all over Barossa Valley. He is known to make such strange things as Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignons. This tawny was made from a blend from various reserves that have accumulated over the years, so placing an age is not straightforward. The appearance of the tawny struck me as being a rather attractive pink like slightly diluted cranberry juice (cosmopolitan, anyone?), with a slight golden tinge. Mouthfeel is incredibly smooth and elegant, flavours are mainly of raisins and sultanas but it isnt overwhelming, just sorts of lingers and goes on in the background. Another unique thing about this tawny is the spiciness of it, its like caramelised ginger with a nice fiery kick to it. So really, lots of things going on everywhere. Absolutely lovely and quite unique (hence the higher than usual rating), excellent value for what you get.
Ombra Prosecco NV Oddbins - £8 B+ Nice fruity sparkler from Italy. Well made, lots of fruit and freshness, mainly apples and pears. Its off-dry with a residual sugar that can be clearly felt; it drinks well on its own, slightly chilled. Nothing to fault really, its your standard summer drink. Its OK value, but its reliable and my local Oddbins is quite keen on it (that, or they bought too much stock and are desperately trying to flog it off).
Independent adjudicator rating: 8.5/10. He was very keen on this, thats all I'll say. Was had with: Melon terrine The terrine was rather weird, the food-wine match was alright. Good palate cleanser to start the dinner.
Devils Lair Chardonnay 1998, Margaret River, Australia Noel Young - £8 (bin end sale) A-
Now this was some wine. I must admit that right after opening, there were suspicions of it being corked. Further sniffings and ten minutes later, this wine just showed what its all about. There is a rather musty/dusty note that you normally get with aged white burgundy/Champagne, in a way, it was almost yeasty. The nose to this wine was incredible: mild ginger, lychee, chamomile, with a sweet floral character to it. The palate was focused yet still generous, the fruit had been replaced by a settled elegance and creaminess (the oak treatment showing through), with a structured minerality and acidity. It ticked all the right boxes for an aged white wine, and much kudos must go to Devils Lair; just shows that cellaring a wlel-made new world white can be rather rewarding, you just get a very different perspective of the wine. I must say I was very impressed, and for the price, what a steal.
Independent adjudicator rating: 4/10. He did not like it at all (prefers the fruit-driven ones, you see). Said that the wine was way too tired and that the fruit had gone 'about five years ago'. Was had with: Grilled rainbow trout. Food was superb, wine was superb but the combination did not work. My feeling is that the wine has too much character and so did the fish, and they clashed.
This too was something. This decadent Tokaji was meant as a celebratory drink and boy did it perform. Obviously very well made, with a long lingering finish that juts goes on and on and on. The nose was of candied citrus fruits, with that chemical note that is unmistakeably Tokaji. The palate was rich, lush and very very long; the complex well-integrated flavours just sort of dances on your palate; fills each corner of your mouth with a different sensation. Despite its age, it still has lots of vigor and life in it; the acidity and structure will allow aging and development for at least another ten years. I have not tasted many Tokajis in my time (mostly due to cost constraints), but this one I will remember for a long time to come, my only regret is that BBR no longer stock this.
Two wines with dinner, a relatively restrained affair.
Francis Ford Coppola 'Directors Cut' Zinfandel 2005, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, USA Noel Young - £15 A-(+)
An excellent brooding Zinfandel. I've heard praises being heaped on FF Coppola's wineries in California, achieving somewhat a cult status. Granted, this wine isn't his best offering, more like the entry level Zinfandel that they do and if this is the little brother, then I can only salivate at the prospect of its more illustrious brothers. The wine had a well-perfumed nose, with some notes of woodiness and cool smoke; the warmth of the alcohol was also apparent. The palate was full of plump red fruits, cherries, blackcurrants and plummy bramble, almost like a berry compote; the flavours were generous and yet vey focused and concentrated, which made me think that a lot of the grapes must have come from old vines or were very heavily selected. You simply cannot make wines with this kind of depth in flavour with young vines. The light touch of French oak contributes to the elegant smoothness of the wine (even at this tender age) and its lingering finish was notable too. In all, this is a serious Zinfandel; OK its not cheap, but you get plenty for the money, and I have no doubts this will continue to mature for at least another 5 yrs, but to be honest, you already get a lot of satisfaction enjoying it now. Somehow I feel that this should be treated like a classed growth Margaux.
Was had with: Roast beef, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Cant go wrong really; I didnt pay much attention to the food, it was the wine that really took centre stage. Independent adjudicator rating: 8/10. General nods of approval.
Familia Zuccardi Torrontes Tardio 2007, Mendoza, Argentina Oddbins - £7 (50cl) B+
Came highly recommended from the people at my local Oddbins. This was made using partially dried Torrontes, which explains why there is still alot of racy acidity in this supposedly desert wine. The flavours were still citrus-dominated, even sweet grapefruit; the sweetness rather pales in comparison to the acidity which in my mind was too cutting and wasnt integrated into the wine. Most desert wines sort of lumbers on your mouth, it feels heavy due to its sugar, this one sort of dances on the palate, tingling the tastebuds. Its interesting drinking, and would probably go very well with things like lemon tarts or any desert which has a significant sour tang to it. Doesnt have the finesse of Sauternes, but for the price, its hard to complain.
Was has with: Peach tart and cream. Desert needed something more sugary and substantial, this one danced on your palate and sort of fleeted away quickly too. Independent adjudicator rating: 7.5/10. Lacked sweetness.
Wonderfully fruity nose, full of raspberry and strawberry goodness; the palate is fresh, clean and leaves you wanting more really. It is quite alcoholic at 13%, but it still feels light and nimble on the palate, especially if you have it slightly chilled; the colour doesnt hurt either, a deep pink hue means its not only pretty to look at, but it also has substance and structure behind the wine. Not completely dry, some residual sugar balances the soft acidity. I cannot for the life of me find any fault with this wine; it wont keep perhaps, but rose isnt supposed to keep in any case. Drink slighty chilled with light food, think poached salmon salad with light vinaigrette dressing.
Was had with: Gazpacho (cold tomato based-soup, description can be found here). Complemented the soup really well; the acidity and sweetness was just right. Independent adjudicator: 8.5/10. They loved it too.
Tenuta del Portale, Aglianico del Vulture DOC 2004, Basilicata, Italy BBR - £10 B
Nose doesnt give much joy, seems rather closed when tasted. Palate was of light berries and cherries, slowly developing into cranberries at the end. The notable feature was the silky and supple tannins, much in the style of proper Margaux; mind you theres still enough structure in there for it to accompany anything but the most hearty of foods. Its a pleasant enough wine, glad I tasted it; but unfortunately, not one which I would buy again.
Was had with: Roast pork, crackling and apple sauce with mashed potatoes and sauteed provence-style vegetables. Went alright, could've been better. Independent adjudicator: 7.5/10 (I think they're being generous here, or maybe its the 14% abv talking)
Campbells Rutherglen Muscat NV, Victoria, AU Oddbins - £9 B-
Bought this because it won Decanter Gold and I cannot see why. It was incredibly sweet: I wouldnt stop short of saying that it was like drinking concentrated solution of brown sugar, like drinking alcoholic raisin juice (yes raisin, not grape). Funnily, it did have osrt of a bitter finish, like marmalade? I wouldnt be surprised if sugars were near the 200g/l mark. The nose only smelled of raisins and molasses. Mouthfeel was unbalanced, the cloying sweetnesss dominated on the palate with hardly any acidity to speak of, maybe it got scared off by the sugars, I dont know. And for the price, I would get BBR's Own Sauternes made by Ch Suduiraut any day. I really disapproved of this; read the winemakers comments here. Or better still, buy a bottle in your local Oddbins and leave me a note. I could however, imagine this as a sauce to drizzle over ice cream / waffles / pancakes; who needs syrup?
Was had with: Rasberry mousse. The desert felt light and refreshing compared to the wine; just downright wrong. Independent adjudicator: 7.25 (again, being polite; or the 17.5% abv?)
Graf Hardegg 'Forticus' Port style Merlot 2000, Blauburger, Austria NYW - £13 (bin end sale) B+
Fruit dominated, cherries and strawberries; very unusual style. It has the restrained, firm tannins like port but none of the associated licorice / blackcurrant nose. This had a lighter nose than most tawnies, let alone vintage port. Very unusual and yet so drinkable; I dont think it would go with sweet deserts just because it lacks the sugar; but with cheeses perhaps?
