First Drop Wines @ Cambridge Wine Merchants

A visit by First Drop winemaker Matt Gant to CWM Cherry Hinton, followed by a tasting of their wines. Prices reflected are retails prices at Cambridge Wine Merchants, all wines will be available from mid October.

Bella Coppia Adelaide Hills Arneis 09
£13. A-

Really lifted white stone fruits, floral and pineapple, grapefruits and some solvent nose too, very nice appealing. Good fat acidity, also nice minerality and pith running through. Feels quite old world to be honest. Good refreshing stuff, highly quaffable for summer evenings.

The Big Blind Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo Barbera 08
£19. A-

Plenty of red fruits, though the colour is quite light, ethereal pinot-like almost. Savoury, white pepper, bell pepper, rounded fruits on the palate. Soft approachable stuff, slightly unripe cherry giving really fresh acidity, little tannins. Light foods, salads, that kind of thing. Well made, not extracted and rather unusual. I find this style of wine quite appealing, like a light Chorey-les-Beaune; soft, rounded and crunchy acidity.

Minchia Adelaide Hills Montepulciano 08
£19. A-

The name apparently refers to bodily appendages (male or female, depending on where you are in Italy). Deep dark and rather brooding, black currants, blackberry, spice, smoky, cinnamon and white pepper. Really firm palate, nice acidity again, really settled. Feels grown up and classy, poised.

Mothers Milk Barossa Shiraz 08
£15. B+

Deeper more alcoholic nose, a typical Aussie shiraz? All the right notes, plenty of fruits, currants and berries. Not overly extracted, low in tannins, which is good, and still plenty of acidity to balance it out. Nice, quaffable and technically correct but forgettable. And certainly you can get plenty of other really good Aussie Shiraz at this price point.

2% Barossa Shiraz 07
£19. A-

Their reserve level shiraz, with 2% albarino in the mix (or savagnin to be more presice), I thought they would have gome for something like viognier. Lifted nose, more expressive than normal, all the right notes for a shiraz is still there - currants, cordial, black fruits. Palate is still soft and approachable. I'm missing the slightly minty notes that I like about Aussie shiraz.

Fat of the Land Seppeltsfield Shiraz 06
£40. A-(+)

Nice ripe and dark fruits there, feels deeper and more brooding than the previous wines, alcoholic too (didnt check the alcohol levels but I suspect its hovering on the 15% mark). Big, quite muscular, palate feels rather taut and highly strung (maybe needs time?). Lots of fruits there, with plenty of acidity still running through, doesn't punch you out. Was left to breathe for 6 hours and is showing well. Class and poise is obvious.

Fat of the Land Ebenezer Shiraz 06
£40. A-(+)

Alcoholic nose with plenty of new oak there. Rich, full, opulent, and very forward, but still rounded with that acidity. Has all you ask for in a Barossa Shiraz. Approachable even now, with abit of air time, perhaps more so than the seppeltsfield - at the moment, I would probably drink this in favour of the seppeltsfield

The Cream Barossa Valley Shiraz 06
£50. A-(+)

Big stuff even in the nose, quite alcoholic, perhaps overly so? Very ripe, smoky, good spice. Palate is full and yielding, really fills the mouth, generous, so much fruit. Good tannic structure shows in this one (first time I've noted tannic structure in this tasting), along with plenty of fresh acidity, this will age for a long long time if you can wait. An excellent expression of the best Barossa Shiraz can offer.

General impressions

Truly interesting tasting, exciting stuff and all very well made. First Drop is a virtual winery, they do not own any vines and buys fruit from growers whom they like. As such the quality should be high - they arent under any pressure to produce certain amounts of wine every year and will probably only make stuff when they feel the fruit is good enough. Love the balance in all the wine, all had good acidity that keeps these wines fresh and doesn't knock you out, and leaves you wanting more. Innovative varietals, certainly unusual, quality of the terroir and wine making clearly evident. The price is slightly on the high side (dont think I can afford many bottles), but hey, they make very good wine.

Everyday drinking

Vina Labarta 2008. Rioja Crianza, Spain.
Laithwaites. B+.

Good example of simple Rioja Crianza. Dark berries and fruits tempered by nice use of oak, creating a smooth and enjoyable palate. It is easily likable and will do well specially with a hearty meal. As one expects from laithwaites, good wine but not memorable.

Long Terrace Chardonnay 2009. Australia.
Laithwaites. B.

Nice ripe white fruits showing; citrus, tropical fruits, quite zesty too. Its fresh, juicy and generally very pleasant. Nothing wrong with it but can't say I'll be buying another bottle,.

Everyday drinking

White River Chenin Blanc 2010. South Africa.
Laithwaithes. A-

Plenty of white fruits, peaches, apricots, even pineapple. Quite stony too, really forward and lively on the nose. Gorgeously full and fruity on the palate. So ready to give, would be an excellent crowd pleaser. A great everyday wine.

Campanula Pinot Grigio 2008. Hungary.
Laithwaites. B

Stony white fruits with good minerality coming through. Fresh and juicy on the palate, gentle acidity. No faults but also unremarkable, an everyday wine.

McPherson Family Series Andrew's Shiraz 2008. Australia.
Laithwaites. B.

Big, full bodied Shiraz in a typical Aussie style. Chocked full with red berries, hints of spice and plenty of alcohol to bring it all together. Ideally a food wine. A well made example of an Aussie Shiraz - what you see is what you get.

Il Papavero NV. Italy.
Laithwaites. B+.

A non-vintage red wine normally makes me very suspicious, but this example is probably towards the better end. Nice round red fruits, plums and cherries; juicy and with very little tannins, this wine feels soft and approachable. I can't fault it and its unremarkable but then again I probably wont refuse a second or third glass.

From the cellars of King's College, Cambridge

Josmeyer Grand Cru Hengst Riesling 2000
A-(+)

Clean, flinty almost mineral. Very acidic, lime zest, citrus, deep. Nose some kerosene but not overwhelming. Excellent length and depth, very well structured wine, with progressive layers of flavours. Still an adolescent, another ten years or so.

Ch Ferriere 2003
A-(+)

Properly bouquet of Margaux, seductive yet not without grip and poise. Nice fat acidity, tannins have softened slightly but still there. Berries, touches of wood and spice; given time, produces a wonderfully rounded and filling mouthfeel, beckons you for more. Good class, with at least 5 years to peak. Classic of the appellation, a little gem.

Coteaux du Layon St.Aubin de Luigne, Cuvee des Forges, Domaine des Forges, Branchereau, 1996
A

Golden colour, deep. Slight alcoholic nose which slowly fades, honey, nectar, acacia. Intensely sweet but good solid acidity running in the background, carries it through and holds it together. Botrytis can be felt, luscious and full but not cloying; may not be as intense as a ripe Sauternes or a TBA, but should be taken seriously. Mouthfeel lasts ages, so balanced, one bottle is not enough. Drinking beautifully now and dare I say it, will probably last forever. A winner.

CUWS Michaelmas 09 – Les Hospices de Beaune

28th October 2009

A selection of wines from the famed (and I’m told, rather picturesque) charity Les Hospices de Beaune; tasting was led by Anthony Hanson MW, Burgundy expert and Senior Wine Consultant at Christie’s.

A short intro into Les Hospices de Beaune: founded in the fifteenth century as a hospital to the poor and needy, it has now become Burgundy’s most famous charity. Through many years of generous benefactions, they now own plenty of vineyards throughout Burgundy, most of which are classed Premier or Grand cru. The wines are then sold by the barrel, only a few weeks after vinification, in an annual auction in the middle of November – a must attend for the players in the Burgundy wine scene. Christie’s have handled the auctions since 2007; the last one in 2008 sold 553 barrels and contributed almost 3 million euros to the Hospice.

Unfortunately, no price estimate is available for the wines tasted this evening.

Pouilly-Fuisse Cuvee Francoise Poisard 2006
B+

Light and lively nose of citrus and limepeel, some chalky minerality too. Old world in style, but very clean and is fleeting on the palate; body is rather thin, fruit and acid in balance. A charming little wine.

Meursault-Genevrieres 1er Cru Cuvee Phillippe le Bon 2006
A-

More developed nose: quite yeasty, bready, mushroomy in character, almost like vintage Champagne; some white peaches too. Oak treatment on palate shows, a more substantial food wine; creamy, savoury notes fills the mid palate very nicely. Acidity will allow aging, but even now its drinking nicely. Mid to long finish, plenty of class.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Cuvee Francois de Salins 2006
A-(+)

Lively and fruity nose, plenty of white fruits, green apples too; stony minerality also shows – all very inviting. At the moment, a bit out of sorts: fruit still lively; acidity is filling and minerality also pronounced, making it feel like a rather burly, confused wine. At the moment, it’s a bit lean and tight, only giving glimpses of potential. This wine will give lots of joy for those with deep pockets and plenty of patience, definitely for the long haul. Best white among the three tonight, by quite some distance.

Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Cuvee Arthur Girard 2005
B+(+)

Lively Pinot aromas, jumps out really. Good red fruits on the palate, albeit slightly outshown by the green tannins and out of place acidity. Feels a bit tight and awkward, not showing well, perhaps needs a few years to really settle down. I think theres more to this than what it showed.

Beaune 1er Cru Cuvee Dames Hospitalieres 2005
A

Lifted nose, almost floral. Drinking very well – soft and elegant mid palate, showing crushed red fruits, damsons and ripe cherry. So generous on the palate, with the soft acidity holding everything together, really shows what a good Burgundy should be. Not for long haul, but why would you when its giving so much now?

Pommard-Epenots 1er Cru Cuvee Dom Gablet 2007
B+

Very unusual colour: its light, almost Madeira like, amber / burnt copper. Nose is quite alcoholic, red fruits, sour cherry and even a touch of aniseed. Palate is light and fleeting, sour cherries and raspberries dominate; perhaps a bit short on body and mouthfeel, its just a bit too light for me. Great wine to drink on its own, though.

Volnay 1er Cru Cuvee Blondeau 2003
B(+), possibly B(++)


Rustic nose, farmyard greenness and slight cigar box spice; some deeper mysterious notes here, kirsch and chocolate were even mentioned during the tasting. Very well structured on the palate, proper tannin balanced by some piercing acidity; coats the mouth well. A bit too young to drink now, needs to settle down a bit, certainly tannins need time. Glimpses of brighter future ahead.

Corton Grand Cru Cuvee Charlotte Dumay 2002
A-(+)

Lovely nose, ticks all the boxes for proper Burgundy: rustic earthiness is there, so is some wood and touch of smoke. Deeper red fruits, even kirsch. Perfume already indicates class. Tannins quite drying towards back of palate; still lots of red fruits on the fore and mid palate. Everything holding together very well, but I suspect given time, this charming little number will have plenty more to offer.

Clos de La Roche Grand Cru Cuvee Georges Kritter 2005
A(++)

A move up in quality from the reds so far in the tasting. Nose here is deeper, slightly more developed. Classic notes of smoke, wood and some spice are all there, along with darker currants. Still too young to show its true colours; tannins a bit too grippy at this stage. Mouthfeel and concentration of flavours is remarkable though, it literally coats every part of your palate; I have no doubts this will be an outstanding wine. One for the long haul.

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvee Madeleine Collignon 2003
A(+)

Un Pinot-like nose; almost meaty and Bordeaux like. Deeper darker fruits, maybe even licorice in there. Very unusual and quite hidden, makes you work a bit. Solid dark fruits on the palate, really full bodied wine; nice firm intensity of flavours. Tannins need to soften out, at the moment its dominating the finish too much. I’d put it in the same class as the Clos de la Roche above – another one for the long haul.

I must say that it was truly a joy to taste these fantastic wines; burgundy may not be cheap but if you get it right, nothing comes close.

General, 15 Nov 2009

Three wines with dinner, all available from www.nakedwines.com

Raats Family Chenin Blanc 2008. Stellenbosch, SA.
£14 | A-

A gorgeous example of well made SA Chenin Blanc; shows really why there is all the hype for this varietal in SA. Very lively on the nose, with limepeel and tropical fruits leading the way; the fruity tangy palate is awash with plenty of crisp acidity, there is even some smoky and waxy notes (in a good, almost old world style, kind of way) at the back of the palate. Good level of minerality and zip (highly technical term that it is) helps keep everything together; overall, very well balanced and carries itself with much aplomb. I'd like to see how this will evolve with time, but for now, enjoy by the bucketful.

Ladies who shoot their lunch, Riesling 2008. Victoria, Australia.
£16 | B+

A very well made new world riesling - notes of kerosene and esters shows in the nose, as well as citrus fruits and some floral characters; overall lovely aroma. The oh-so-slightly off-dry palate is dominated by citrus fruits, most notably grapefruit (with the slightly tart flavours). The acidity provides a good backbone to the wine, as does some underlying flinty minerality, making this wine incredibly enjoyable. Overall, well balanced and presentable wine. Didnt give it higher rating for several reasons: (i) short-ish finish (ii) doubt as to ability to age - all top-notch rieslings should improve with age, not sure this will (iii) slightly pricey at £16.

Was had with: Roast pork, crackling and apple sauce. Went very well, especially with the apple sauce.

Domaine Cristia Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2006
£15 | B

Smells of tinned fruits (pears and peaches); nose is honeyed and sweet which unsurprisingly carries through on the palate. Wine drinks cleanly and isnt cloying (more like icing sugar than golden syrup) but is rather thin and lacks depth. The burst of sweetness is not balanced by any tangible acidity, leading to a rather unbalanced wine. This may sound stupid but it tastes fortified (spirit-like); I've had other VDNs that have managed to hide the alcoholic addition. Was unimpressed with this wine, and at £15, is not brilliant value.

General, 8 Nov 2009

Two wines with dinner, both available from www.nakedwines.com

Domaine de Malartic Cotes de Gascogne Petit Manseng 2007
£11 (750ml) | A-

Lifted aromas of white fruits; on the palate, lots of sweet pears, apples and even grapes (quite unusual for wine, really). The honeyed sweetness is not cloying, balanced by soft, muted acidity. Overall, a very drinkable and versatile dessert wine that is refreshing when slightly chilled. Was had with cream of corn soup (very good match actually, sweetness complemented each other) and spotted dick with custard (again, no complaints here - good match). Would probably be better if sold as half bottles at half the price.

Castillo Catadau Gran Reserva Valencia 2002
£10 | B

Old world in style, musty / earthy notes on the nose, almost ashy. On the palate, its smooth but a bit timid, the remnant of dark fruits is just about clinging on, leaving a rather empty mid palate. The tannins still quite bitter at the back along with some fungal / herby notes, an underwhelming finish. Either I got a bad bottle, or this wine is past its best. Was had with roast beef (OK, could have done with a bit more fruit and body).